<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756</id><updated>2010-03-11T13:04:15.243-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Modern Gardener</title><subtitle type='html'>Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener Modern Gardener</subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><link rel='next' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default?start-index=26&amp;max-results=25'/><author><name>HortiCultra</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>45</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-818131796962952905</id><published>2008-01-14T18:36:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-14T18:43:45.060-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Pest Control - Pineneedle Scale'/><title type='text'>Pineneedle Scale</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wc3wSI5pI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/OelimAPsd4I/s1600-h/images-1.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wc3wSI5pI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/OelimAPsd4I/s400/images-1.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155527417611740818" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Pine Needle Scale&lt;br /&gt;Homoptera: Diaspididae, Phenaeaspis pinifoliae&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Plants Attacked&lt;br /&gt;Scotch, mugho, Austrian Pine; also present but seldom damaging on Eastern White Pine, Norway Spruce, and some other conifers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Description of Damage&lt;br /&gt;Damage is not apparent until large populations have been present for more than 1 or 2 seasons. trees are stunted, grow slowly, have short needles and shoots. Occasionally the feeding of scales produces chlorotic, yellowish flecks no the needles, but normally this is not apparent. Heavily infested plants are seriously weakened and may be in a state of decline.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Identification&lt;br /&gt;Scale covers are about 1/8" long, white, elongate, narrow in front and broad in back. Eggs under the scale covers are purplish in color. Crawlers and settled nymphs are reddish brown. Females are reddish in color beneath the white scale covers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Life History&lt;br /&gt;The hatching period is relatively short (7-10 days) in mid May and again in mid to late July. The first generation crawlers settle on old needles, since new growth is not fully developed until later. Second generation crawlers settle primarily on the current year's growth. Females produce 5-30 reddish purple eggs. Although the number of eggs laid is relatively small, two generations a year permits rapid buildup of infestations. In areas where infestations are large, lady beetle (especially the twice-stabbed lady beetle) is an effective predator.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Control&lt;br /&gt;Sprays are effective if applied after most eggs have hatched. Experience has shown that treatments for the summer generation may be more effective than the first. Control may be applied at either time.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Remarks&lt;br /&gt;Pine needle scale can be a serious pest of Christmas trees as well as ornamental trees and shrubs. Crawlers are blown by the wind and can be carried on birds.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-818131796962952905?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/818131796962952905/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=818131796962952905' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/818131796962952905'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/818131796962952905'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/pineneedle-scale.html' title='Pineneedle Scale'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wc3wSI5pI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/OelimAPsd4I/s72-c/images-1.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-9168471268733849308</id><published>2008-01-14T18:33:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-14T18:36:35.407-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Pest Control - Cottony Maple Scale'/><title type='text'>Cottony Maple Scale</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wbxQSI5oI/AAAAAAAAAJw/j-oRdlqdn3U/s1600-h/images.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wbxQSI5oI/AAAAAAAAAJw/j-oRdlqdn3U/s400/images.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155526206430963330" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Homoptera: Coccidae, Palvinaria innumerabilis&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;PLANTS ATTACKED: Maples and dogwood primarily, but also many woody ornamentals.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;DESCRIPTION: Heavily infested plants will have large numbers of scales on the branches and twigs. Large numbers of feeding scales will reduce the amount of nutrients reaching the leaves and will cause them to turn yellow and fall prematurely. Scale insects feed on plant sap with their long thread-like mouthparts (stylets), which are six to eight times longer than the insect itself. Feeding by scales slowly reduces plant vigor. Heavily infested plants grow poorly and may suffer dieback of twigs and branches. Occasionally, an infested host will be so weakened that it will die.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;IDENTIFICATION: During the winter the cottony maple scale is in the immature stage and is small, oval and flattened in shape, and pale green in color. During the warm temperatures of spring, the scale reaches maturity and, by late spring, the brown, elongate scale has a characteristic white, cottony egg mass attached to it.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;LIFE HISTORY: Eggs are laid in April and June and hatching occurs throughout the early summer. Crawlers settle on leaves and stems. Male scales complete development by fall and mate with the immature females. Before the leaves drop from the trees, the female scales migrate to the stems and twigs to overwinter. In spring the female reaches maturity and lays a distinctive cottony egg mass. There is one generation per year.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;CONTROL: Crawlers are usually out between June 5 and June 25 in Virginia. Treat June 10 and 20. Adult scales are protected from insecticides by waxy coverings. Control measures, therefore, must be aimed at unprotected immatures, called crawlers, which are only out for a short time. Dormant oil can be applied to the overwintering stages in late spring before new growth starts. During the growing season, when dormant oil cannot be used, insecticide treatments must be timed correctly to eliminate the crawler stage. See the Virginia Pest Management Guides for specific insecticides for control. Care should be taken when applying insecticides, because they may deplete the number of natural enemies that normally control the pest insects.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;REMARKS: Cotton maple scales are heavily fed upon by natural enemies and, in some cases, chemical controls are not needed. English Sparrows, feeding on the scales are thought to be important in reducing populations. This scale is sometimes confused with Maple Leaf Scale, which produces its egg mass on the leaves. The Cottony Maple Scale produces its egg mass primarily on the branches and stems.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Visit&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-9168471268733849308?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/9168471268733849308/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=9168471268733849308' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/9168471268733849308'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/9168471268733849308'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/cottony-maple-scale.html' title='Cottony Maple Scale'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wbxQSI5oI/AAAAAAAAAJw/j-oRdlqdn3U/s72-c/images.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-7993406879810588938</id><published>2008-01-14T18:02:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-14T18:04:00.927-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Pest Control - Potato Leafhopper'/><title type='text'>Potato Leafhopper</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wUWwSI5nI/AAAAAAAAAJo/ExcHy79jxY4/s1600-h/images.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wUWwSI5nI/AAAAAAAAAJo/ExcHy79jxY4/s400/images.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155518054583035506" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Potato Leafhopper&lt;br /&gt;Empoasca fabae (Harris), Cicadellidae, HEMIPTERA)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;DESCRIPTION&lt;br /&gt;Adult - Because many species of leafhoppers look alike, entomologists studying these insects must rely heavily on examination of internal genitalia structures, as well as external morphological characters, to distinguish the various species. The mature potato leafhopper is about 3 mm long, wedge-shaped, and winged. Generally greenish, it has very small, yellowish, pale, or dark green spots, and readily jumps when disturbed.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Egg - About 1 mm long, the egg is elongate and whitish.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Nymph - Several nymphal stages exist, all of which are wingless and smaller than the adult. Though paler, the nymph is colored similarly to the adult.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;BIOLOGY&lt;br /&gt;Distribution - During the summer, potato leafhoppers are found from the Atlantic coast to the Rocky Mountains. They are absent throughout most of the winter which they spend in the Gulf States. Northeastern and midwestern states suffer the greatest forage loss from this pest due to the concentration of alfalfa and clover in these areas. In North Carolina, these leafhoppers are widely distributed during the growing season on peanuts, hay and pasture crops.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Host Plants - This leafhopper feeds on more than 100 cultivated and wild plants, including bean, potato, alfalfa, soybean, and peanut. In North Carolina, peanuts are more seriously affected by this pest than are forage and pasture crops.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Damage - Nationwide, the potato leafhopper is a very injurious pest of forages, particularly alfalfa and clover. Both nymphs and adults feed on the undersides of the leaves. By extracting the sap, they cause stunting and leaf curl, as well as the condition called "hopperburn." This disease is caused by the injection of a toxic substance. It is characterized by a yellowing of the tissue at the tip and around the leaf margin which increases until the leaf dies. Symptoms are sometimes confused with drought stress.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Life History - Potato leafhoppers winter in the Gulf States and migrate northward in spring. They arrive in North Carolina in early summer. After mating, eggs are laid inside the veins on the underside of leaves. A female leafhopper lives about a month, producing one to six eggs daily. Eggs hatch in about 10 days, and the nymphs mature in about 2 weeks. Mating occurs approximately 48 hours after maturation. Three or four generations are produced each year in North Carolina.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;CONTROL&lt;br /&gt;When populations become severe, insecticides are the only practical method of leafhopper control.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-7993406879810588938?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/7993406879810588938/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=7993406879810588938' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/7993406879810588938'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/7993406879810588938'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/potato-leafhopper.html' title='Potato Leafhopper'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wUWwSI5nI/AAAAAAAAAJo/ExcHy79jxY4/s72-c/images.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-929320108163065458</id><published>2008-01-14T17:33:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-14T17:36:40.599-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Pest Control - Aphids'/><title type='text'>Aphids</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wNgQSI5lI/AAAAAAAAAJY/MY9X86Ko5vs/s1600-h/Aphids.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wNgQSI5lI/AAAAAAAAAJY/MY9X86Ko5vs/s400/Aphids.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155510521210398290" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Aphids, or plant lice, are small, soft-bodied insects which are common pests of nearly all indoor and outdoor ornamental plants, as well as vegetables, field crops, and fruit trees. There are hundreds of different species of aphids, some of which attack only one host plant, while others attack numerous hosts. Most aphids are about 1/10 inch long, and though commonly&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wN0gSI5mI/AAAAAAAAAJg/OfUa_sJYGck/s1600-h/Aphids2.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wN0gSI5mI/AAAAAAAAAJg/OfUa_sJYGck/s400/Aphids2.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155510869102749282" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; green and black, they may be gray, brown, pink, red, yellow, or lavender. A characteristic common to all species is the presence of two tubes, called cornicles, on the back ends of their bodies. The cornicles secrete defensive substances. In some species they are quite long, while in others they are very short and difficult to see.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Aphids feed in clusters and generally prefer new, succulent shoots or young leaves. Some species, known as woolly aphids, are covered with white, waxy filaments which they produce from special glands.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Life History: Aphids have unusual and complex life cycles which allow them to build up tremendous populations in relatively short periods of time. Most species overwinter as fertilized eggs glued to stems or other parts of plants. Nymphs which hatch from these eggs become wingless females known as stem mothers. There are no males present at this time. Stem mothers reproduce parthenogenetically (without mating), and their eggs are held within their bodies until they hatch so that young are born alive. All offspring are females which soon mature and begin to reproduce in the same manner. This pattern continues for as long as conditions are favorable. A dozen or more generations are typical in Virginia. Periodically, some or all of the young develop wings and migrate to other plants. Some species always settle on the same type of plant; others have one or more alternate hosts. With the return of autumn's shorter days and cooler temperatures, a generation appears which includes both males and females. After matting, these females lay the fertilized eggs which overwinter and eventually hatch into stem mothers the following spring. Aphids are in the order Homoptera, Family Aphididae.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Damage: Aphids feed by sucking up plant juices through a food channel in their beaks. At the same time, they inject saliva into the host.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Light infestations are usually not harmful to plants, but higher aphid populations cause leaf curl, wilting, stunting of shoot growth, and delay in production of flowers and fruit, as well as a general decline in plant vigor. Some aphids are also important vectors of plant diseases, transmitting pathogens, particularly viruses, in the feeding process.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A distinctive feature of aphids, as well as some scales and other bugs, is the production of honeydew. Honeydew is the clear, sticky dropping that lands on the leaves or anything below the plant or tree that aphids are feeding upon. A sticky glaze of honeydew may collect on lower leaves, outdoor furniture, cars, and other objects below aphid feeding sites. Honey dew coated objects soon become covered by one or more black or brown fungi known as sooty molds. Crusts of sooty mold are unsightly on man-made objects, and they interfere with photosynthesis in leaves.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Colonies of aphids are sometimes protected by certain ants. In return for this protection the ants are allowed to collect the sweet honeydew. In most cases, the ants protect aphids that have already established themselves on the plant and these aphids or their eggs and keep them through the winter in their nests. In spring, the ants transport these aphids to food plants where they protect them from enemies and at intervals transfer them to new feeding sites.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Recognition: Unthrifty or stunted plants and plants with curled or deformed leaves are likely to have aphid infestations. Feeding aphids usually occur in clusters on succulent shoots, under leaves, or in other suitable feeding sites. The presence of honeydew or sooty mold is often an excellent clue that aphids are present. Plants should be examined closely on a regular basis to detect aphids before damage is evident.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Some Common Aphids in Virginia:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;White Pine Aphid. Black or gray with long legs. This is a common pest of eastern white pine. Severe infestations reduce the growth and may even kill small trees. Colonies occur most commonly on twigs and stems where the bark may be killed in patches. Needles and twigs are sometimes completely covered with sooty mold. Eggs, which are laid in lines on the needles, may hatch when infested white pines are brought indoors for use as Christmas trees.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Rose Aphid. Green or pink with black legs. A widespread and common pest of all cultivated roses, this species may also damage pyracantha. Stems, buds, and young, tender leaves are injured.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Giant Bark Aphid. Ash gray with black spots. Nearly ½ inch long including the legs, this is our largest aphid species. It attacks willow, maple, elm, birch, and several other common shade trees. It feeds on the bark of twigs and small branches. Bees, wasps, and flies are attracted to the honey-dew it excretes.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Green Peach Aphid. Pale yellow-green. This species attacks dozens of different hosts including aster, catalpa, crocus, chrysanthemum, dahlia, English ivy, iris, lily, nasturtium, pansy, rose, snapdragon, tulip,and violet, as well as many garden vegetables and some fruit trees. It is capable of transmitting over 100 different plant viruses.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Chrysanthemum Aphid. Shiny dark brown with short cornicles. Common and widespread on chrysanthemum where they cause stunted growth and slightly curled leaves.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Woolly Alder Aphid. Plump and blue-black, but completely covered with white waxy filaments. Silver maple is the primary host, but they migrate to alder in mid-summer, then return to silver maple in late fall. This aphid is not particularly injurious to either host, but it becomes a nuisance when waxy filaments accumulate under heavily infested trees.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Also, Woolly Apple Aphid, Rosy Apple Aphid, Pea Aphid, Cabbage Aphid, Bean Aphid, Mellon Aphid, Snowball Aphid, and many, many others. Some aphids cause galls. Included in this group are:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Witchhazel Cone Gall Aphid, Spiny Witchhazel Gall Aphid, and the Elm Cockscomb Gall Aphid.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Control: Natural enemies play a very important part in controlling aphid populations. Lady beetles, lacewings, damsel bugs, flower fly maggots, certain parasitic wasps, birds, and fungal diseases all attack aphids. Without them, these pests would be much more destructive. Gardeners should avoid unnecessary use of insecticides which are harmful to beneficial organisms.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Gardeners should also strive to keep their plants healthy and growing vigorously. Migrating aphids are attracted to the yellow-green color of unthrifty plants. If an infestation does develop, there are several insecticides registered for aphid control. Check the Virginia Pest Management Guides for current pest control recommendations. These guides are available through your local Extension agent. Always read the label before applying any pesticide.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-929320108163065458?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/929320108163065458/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=929320108163065458' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/929320108163065458'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/929320108163065458'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/aphids.html' title='Aphids'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wNgQSI5lI/AAAAAAAAAJY/MY9X86Ko5vs/s72-c/Aphids.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-66172927422106684</id><published>2008-01-14T16:44:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-14T17:08:51.580-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Weed Control - Illinois Exotic Weed Law'/><title type='text'>Illinois Exotic Weed Law</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wCPASI5kI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/fymkDkMaAOQ/s1600-h/images-1.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wCPASI5kI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/fymkDkMaAOQ/s400/images-1.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155498130229749314" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;This Law states That The Following Plants Cannot Be Planted, Bought or Sold In Illinois Without A Permit.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Natural Resources.  Such permits shall be issued only for experiments in controlling and eradicating exotic weeds or for research to demonstrate that a variety of a species listed in this act is not an exotic weed."  The act defines exotic weeds as "plants not native to North America, which when planted either spread vegetatively or naturalize and degrade natural communities, reduce the value of fish and wildlife habitat, or threaten an Illinois endangered or threatened species....Violators of this act shall be guilty of a class B misdemeanor.  When the violation is a continuing offense, each day shall be considered a seperate violation. "Furtermore. "exotic weeds offered for sale in Illinois....(to Illinois residents) are subject to confiscation and destruction by agents of the Department of Natural Resources."  However commercially propagated exotic weeds for sale outside Illinois are permissible. Weeds that are exotic in Illinois are noted in table 4.2&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Table 4.2 Exotic weeds of Illinois&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Perennial&lt;br /&gt;Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica)&lt;br /&gt;Multiflora rose (Rosa Multiflora)&lt;br /&gt;Purple Loosestrife (lythrum salicaria)&lt;br /&gt;Kudzu&lt;br /&gt;Common Buckthorn&lt;br /&gt;Glossy Buckthorn&lt;br /&gt;Saw-Toothed Buckthorn&lt;br /&gt;Dahurian Buckthorn&lt;br /&gt;Japanese Buckthorn&lt;br /&gt;Chinese Buckthorn&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-66172927422106684?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/66172927422106684/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=66172927422106684' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/66172927422106684'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/66172927422106684'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/illinois-exotic-weed-law.html' title='Illinois Exotic Weed Law'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4wCPASI5kI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/fymkDkMaAOQ/s72-c/images-1.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-6388799002015067071</id><published>2008-01-14T15:49:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-14T17:09:55.398-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Weed Control - Noxious Weeds Of Illinois'/><title type='text'>Noxious Weeds Of Illinois</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4v3VASI5jI/AAAAAAAAAJI/1YvegYfopfI/s1600-h/images.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4v3VASI5jI/AAAAAAAAAJI/1YvegYfopfI/s400/images.jpeg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155486138681058866" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:180%;" &gt;Noxious Weeds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:180%;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:100%;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:78%;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Certain weeds have been legally declared Noxious by the Illinois legislature.  There control is required by law.  The Illinois Noxious Weed states that "every person shall control the spread of" and "eradicate all noxious weeds on lands owned or controlled by him in the state of Illinois." "Whenever the owner or person in control of the land on which noxious weeds are present has neglected or failed to control them, the control authority having jurisdiction shall have proper control and eradication methods used on such land, and shall advise the owner,person in control, and record holder of any encumbrance of the cost incurred in connection with such operation.  The cost of any such control or eradication shall be the expense of the owner.  In addition the person shall be subject to a fine of not more than 100 dollars for the first offense and not more than 200 dollars for each subsequent offence.  The weeds that are noxious in Illinois are noted in Table 4.1.  The local county weed commissioner can also declare certain weeds as noxious in the county under his or her jurisdiction.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Table 4.1&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Annual&lt;br /&gt;Common ragweed (ambrosia artemisiifolia)*&lt;br /&gt;Giant ragweed (Ambrosia trifida)*&lt;br /&gt;Marijuana (Canbnabis sativa)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Biennial&lt;br /&gt;Musk Thistle (Cirsium arvense)&lt;br /&gt;Johnson Grass (Sorghum halepense)&lt;br /&gt;Perennial sowthistle (Sonchus arvensis)&lt;br /&gt;Sorghum - Almum (Sorghum almum (Sorghum almum)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;*Noxious only within the corporate limits of the cities, villages, and incorporate towns.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-6388799002015067071?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/6388799002015067071/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=6388799002015067071' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/6388799002015067071'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/6388799002015067071'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/noxious-weeds-of-illinois.html' title='Noxious Weeds Of Illinois'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4v3VASI5jI/AAAAAAAAAJI/1YvegYfopfI/s72-c/images.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-1744156125757412675</id><published>2008-01-09T10:18:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2008-01-09T10:24:19.151-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Rose-Sunny Knock Out &apos;Radsunny&apos;'/><title type='text'>Sunny Knock Out® PPAF  'Radsunny’</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4URNgSI5iI/AAAAAAAAAJA/NpAH9VX69_k/s1600-h/sunnyknockout.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4URNgSI5iI/AAAAAAAAAJA/NpAH9VX69_k/s400/sunnyknockout.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153544272297387554" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:180%;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:times new roman;" &gt;Sunny Knock Out® PPAF&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:times new roman;" &gt;‘Radsunny’&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Introducer:  The Conard-Pyle Co.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Breeder  William Radler&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Type   Landscape Shrub Rose&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;The Bud&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Form:   Pointed&lt;br /&gt;Color:   Bright Yellow  &lt;br /&gt;Size:   Medium (2 inches)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;The Bloom&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Color: Bright yellow at opening, turning&lt;br /&gt; cream white when fully open&lt;br /&gt;Form:   single&lt;br /&gt;Number of Petals: mostly 5, sometimes 6&lt;br /&gt;Size:   Medium&lt;br /&gt;Diameter:  3 inches&lt;br /&gt;Fragrance: no flower fragrance, but the petioles release a strong sweetbriar fragrance similar to Rainbow Knock Out®&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;The Plant&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Vegetation:  Very vigorous&lt;br /&gt;Habit:   Upright&lt;br /&gt;Inflorescence: 1 to 5 flowers per stem&lt;br /&gt;Foliage:  dark green, semi glossy&lt;br /&gt;Disease Tolerance: Very good&lt;br /&gt;Flowering:  very abundant and continuous, will bloom year round in mild     climates&lt;br /&gt;Height:  4 - 4 1/2 feet&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;Descriptive&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;This new release from Bill Radler has the disease resistance of the original Knock Out®, with a similarly dark, attractive foliage, and  a slightly more upright habit. A new color in the most popular shrub rose family in North America, Sunny Knock Out® will shine in any garden from Canada to the Gulf. Winter hardy to zone 4. The yellow color will stay stronger during the cooler times of the year.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-1744156125757412675?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/1744156125757412675/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=1744156125757412675' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1744156125757412675'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1744156125757412675'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2008/01/sunny-knock-out-ppaf-radsunny.html' title='Sunny Knock Out® PPAF  &apos;Radsunny’'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R4URNgSI5iI/AAAAAAAAAJA/NpAH9VX69_k/s72-c/sunnyknockout.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-6991659671371947808</id><published>2007-12-18T12:51:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2007-12-18T12:55:44.327-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Succulant-Euphorbia Lactea'/><title type='text'>Euphorbia Lactea</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R2gzJKyv-hI/AAAAAAAAAIw/KK41fec2erk/s1600-h/images.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R2gzJKyv-hI/AAAAAAAAAIw/KK41fec2erk/s400/images.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145418806879844882" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Family: Euphorbiaceae&lt;br /&gt;Candelabra Plant, Elkhorn&lt;br /&gt;Origin: India&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Euphorbia lactea is a cactus-like plant with 3 or 4 angled branches that are deeply scalloped with black spines. It is used medicinally in India as a hot jam to treat rheumatism. All plant parts are considered poisonous, especially the white, milky sap. It is irritating to the skin, eyes and mouth. Euphorbia lactea need full sun to partial shade with warm temperatures. We use a soil mix consisting of equal part of loam and sand. The plant should be allowed to dry thoroughly between waterings. In the winter months, water should be restricted to once over the winter. The most common failure in growing this plant is over-watering, especially during the winter months. Euphorbia lactea "Cristata" is an intricately monstrous form with fan-shaped crested branches forming a snaky ridge or crowded cluster. Crest form often needs in grafting.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-6991659671371947808?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/6991659671371947808/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=6991659671371947808' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/6991659671371947808'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/6991659671371947808'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/12/euphorbia-lactea.html' title='Euphorbia Lactea'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R2gzJKyv-hI/AAAAAAAAAIw/KK41fec2erk/s72-c/images.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-799616479397650385</id><published>2007-12-17T07:29:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2007-12-17T07:35:17.606-08:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Greenroof Research'/><title type='text'>Organic Greenroof Architecture</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R2aWgqyv-eI/AAAAAAAAAIY/pCfdtTozyHw/s1600-h/greenroof1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R2aWgqyv-eI/AAAAAAAAAIY/pCfdtTozyHw/s400/greenroof1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5144965112304499170" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Organic Greenroof Architecture:  Sustainable Design for the &lt;br /&gt;New Millennium  &lt;br /&gt;Making the most of your building's "fifth façade" &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;© Wiley Periodicals, Inc. &lt;br /&gt;Environmental Quality Management/Summer 2005 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; By Linda S. Velazquez &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; High-performance buildings, green design practices, and sustainable &lt;br /&gt;technologies are becoming increasingly important influences on architectural &lt;br /&gt;practices around the world.  They are even beginning to influence standards &lt;br /&gt;within the construction industry. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Encouraged by growing interest and demand on the part of both the public &lt;br /&gt;and private sectors, multidisciplinary professionals -- from architects to &lt;br /&gt;environmental managers, from engineers to landscape architects and beyond -- &lt;br /&gt;are redefining the way we look at design and examining our environmental &lt;br /&gt;impacts on the Earth with an integrated, holistic approach. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Green Building.  Green Architecture.  Green Roofs.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; “Green” anything nowadays is a hot topic and a buzzword -- sometimes &lt;br /&gt;wholeheartedly embraced, other times politically charged, sometimes even &lt;br /&gt;scoffed at.  But perhaps this design adjective should be accepted simply as a &lt;br /&gt;common-sense approach and an indication of respect for both our natural and &lt;br /&gt;built environments. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; But what constitutes "building green," and what does sustainability mean &lt;br /&gt;in the context of building design?  In the United States, the Office of the Federal &lt;br /&gt;Environmental Executive defines green building as "the practice of (1) increasing &lt;br /&gt;the efficiency with which buildings and their sites use energy, water, and &lt;br /&gt;materials, and (2) reducing building impacts on human health and the &lt;br /&gt;environment, through better siting, design, construction, operation, maintenance, &lt;br /&gt;and removal -- the complete building life cycle.”1 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The simplest definition of sustainability is design that meets the needs of &lt;br /&gt;the present generation without compromising the ability of future generations to &lt;br /&gt;meet their needs. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Noted green architect William McDonough asks us to imagine building &lt;br /&gt;structures that not only do not hurt the environment, but that contribute positively &lt;br /&gt;to ecosystems, and possibly even help heal disturbed landscapes. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 2 &lt;br /&gt; The use of greenroofs on commercial buildings can help further the goal of &lt;br /&gt;maximizing the eco-friendliness of the built environment.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;About this Article &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; This article presents an overview of the greenroof concept.  Included is &lt;br /&gt;discussion of the history of greenroofs -- which, though relatively modern in their &lt;br /&gt;present form, are rooted in ancient vernacular architecture and in the innate &lt;br /&gt;human desire to connect the built environment with nature. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; I discuss basic greenroof technologies, and explain some of the key &lt;br /&gt;ecological, economic, aesthetic, and psychological advantages that greenroofs &lt;br /&gt;offer to both users and owners.2 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Global Concerns Drive the Search for Green Solutions &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Several issues of global environmental concern have been driving a new &lt;br /&gt;"greater green."  Factors such as global warming, air and water pollution, &lt;br /&gt;population growth, and loss of habitat and biodiversity have contributed to the &lt;br /&gt;call for improved environmental design. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In a 2001 "Special Report on Global Warming," Time magazine noted that &lt;br /&gt;the global mean temperature is expected to rise between 2.5ºF and 10.4ºF over &lt;br /&gt;the next 100 years.  The United Nations weather agency recently stated that &lt;br /&gt;Earth's average temperature in 2001 was the second highest recorded since &lt;br /&gt;global records began 140 years ago. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The Kyoto Protocol, which is aimed at slowing global warming by reducing &lt;br /&gt;human impacts, went into effect in February 2005.  The Protocol commits 35 &lt;br /&gt;industrialized countries -- the U.S. not among them -- to reducing their emissions &lt;br /&gt;of six greenhouse gases (principally carbon dioxide) to five percent below 1990 &lt;br /&gt;levels by 2012. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Some other indicators of environmental stress include the following: &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• The U.S. Census Bureau reports that at midyear 2002, the global &lt;br /&gt;population reached 6.2 billion.  The United States alone will be home to &lt;br /&gt;420 million people by 2050, or 140 million more than in 2000.3 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• Humans now consume natural resources 20 percent faster than nature &lt;br /&gt;can renew them. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• Use of fossil fuels increased by almost 700 percent between 1961 and &lt;br /&gt;2001. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 3 &lt;br /&gt;• Populations of land, freshwater, and marine species fell on average by 40 &lt;br /&gt;percent between 1970 and 2000.4  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• Impervious cover has become a signature effect of contemporary land use.  &lt;br /&gt;Our paving of open land and speculative development patterns resemble &lt;br /&gt;an urban equivalent of the “slash and burn” clear-cutting techniques that &lt;br /&gt;are still so prevalent in forestry and agriculture. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• As a result of our land use practices, we have developed over-stressed &lt;br /&gt;sewer systems and urgent stormwater management problems. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In an era when developing clean and renewable energy strategies and &lt;br /&gt;addressing ever-increasing energy consumption rates are so crucial to our &lt;br /&gt;economic and ecological future, it is clear that we need to fully examine eco- &lt;br /&gt;friendly alternatives that also make economic sense in order to truly create a &lt;br /&gt;sustainable world. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Global Answers Include Sustainable Greenroof Architecture &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs are not a panacea for our environmental construction ills.  Nor &lt;br /&gt;should any one single design component carry that burden.  The beauty and &lt;br /&gt;promise of sustainable architecture and design lie in the integration of roof, &lt;br /&gt;building skin, interior, site location, and overall building design. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; But viewed as one layer of a green building strategy, greenroofs can play &lt;br /&gt;an important role.  They can: &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• reduce ambient air temperature, energy use, and utility costs; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• help cleanse the air and water; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• utilize local and recycled materials; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• extend the life of the roof; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• improve aesthetics; and  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;• create greenspace for humans and wildlife while providing a psychological &lt;br /&gt;and physical respite from urban surroundings. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;What Is a Greenroof? &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; What exactly constitutes a greenroof?  Greenroofs are simply vegetated &lt;br /&gt;roof covers constructed atop and across a roof deck.  They sometimes are called &lt;br /&gt;ecoroofs, sky gardens, even skyrise gardens.  As living roofs, they contrast &lt;br /&gt;starkly with the average inert, hot, barren roof. &lt;br /&gt; 4 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The greatest potential of greenroofs lies in their capacity to cover &lt;br /&gt;impervious roof surfaces with living, breathing, permeable plant material.  &lt;br /&gt;Greenroofs are healthy, sustainable, and regenerative roof landscapes that can &lt;br /&gt;help protect our environment by diminishing developmental impacts on our &lt;br /&gt;communities.  They are one sustainable design element in the palette of today’s &lt;br /&gt;ecological designer. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Integrated Living Roofs &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Integrated design is essential for delivering a cost-effective green building.  &lt;br /&gt;Successful practitioners have come up with ways to get the whole team &lt;br /&gt;collaborating effectively and thinking outside the box.  Not only are they &lt;br /&gt;delivering green projects within conventional building budgets, but many are &lt;br /&gt;doing it for a conventional fee. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; As designers and community and business leaders, we can choose to &lt;br /&gt;mitigate the many negative effects of a building’s footprint by incorporating &lt;br /&gt;various green design principles.  As an alternative to imposing our built structures &lt;br /&gt;onto the land without considering the function of under-used roof surfaces &lt;br /&gt;(beyond waterproofing), we can incorporate organic greenroof architecture as a &lt;br /&gt;way of designing with nature to evoke displaced landscapes and restore a &lt;br /&gt;measure of greenspace. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Imagine looking down from an airplane with a bird’s eye perspective.  &lt;br /&gt;Instead of seeing huge expanses of concrete or black tar roofs imposing &lt;br /&gt;themselves on the natural environment, you see moving stands of flowering, &lt;br /&gt;multi-colored plants. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The roof now blends into the landscape as a naturalistic meadow scene.  &lt;br /&gt;Or designed gardens and parks create a new “fifth” façade for human recreation &lt;br /&gt;with flowering shrubs, trees, and vegetated spaces. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; These scenarios are technologically possible, and greenroofs do not &lt;br /&gt;require particularly high-tech design.  It is important to understand, however, that &lt;br /&gt;these are engineered systems consisting of various material layers which must &lt;br /&gt;work in tandem to perform correctly. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;A Quick History of Greenroofs:  From Ancient Mesopotamia to the 21st &lt;br /&gt;Century  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Combining plants with architecture is not a new idea, and neither are &lt;br /&gt;greenroofs.  Since early recorded times, natural and created landscapes have &lt;br /&gt;been integrated into the urban fabric. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 5 &lt;br /&gt; Designed elevated greenspaces have existed as long as humanity has &lt;br /&gt;been concerned with architecture.  Manipulating our living spaces logically also &lt;br /&gt;includes using natural areas and garden designs as artistic expressions and a &lt;br /&gt;way to connect back to nature.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The sloping walls of the Ziggurat of Nanna, built around 2100 B.C., were &lt;br /&gt;covered with trees and shrubs.  The fabled Hanging Gardens of Babylon, which &lt;br /&gt;included lush roof gardens and terrace greening, represent the earliest known &lt;br /&gt;interpretations of roof greening, built between the 8th and 10th centuries B.C. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Earth-sheltered huts dating from the Viking era have been found in Ireland &lt;br /&gt;and Scotland.  In addition, around 1000 A.D., sod-covered roofs were used in &lt;br /&gt;Iceland and Scandinavia.  Later on, early 19th century settlers in Canada and the &lt;br /&gt;northern United States introduced grass roofs. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; "Garden cities" have been developed from Persia to Renaissance-era &lt;br /&gt;Paris, and later from Russia to Berlin, London, and New York.  Modernist &lt;br /&gt;architects such as Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Roberto Burle Max &lt;br /&gt;promoted the benefits of roof gardens, and incorporated them into the fabric of &lt;br /&gt;their designs.  Still-successful modern greenroofs from the 1930s include the five &lt;br /&gt;famous Rockefeller Roof Gardens in New York, and the Derry and Tom's Garden &lt;br /&gt;in London (the modern Kensington Roof Gardens).5 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs today can be found throughout Europe and around the world.  &lt;br /&gt;But the development of greenroofs from an expression of vernacular architecture &lt;br /&gt;to a viable sustainable construction roofing alternative took place in modern &lt;br /&gt;Germany.  There, greenroofs have evolved through trial and error, the repeated &lt;br /&gt;testing of materials, and ultimately the development of industry standards and &lt;br /&gt;codes.  It is estimated that Germany now has over 800 greenroof projects.6 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Modern Greenroof Pioneers in Germany and North America  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; True modern greenroofs were introduced in Germany in the early 1970s &lt;br /&gt;by manufacturers, landscape architects, and university researchers.  In 1971 &lt;br /&gt;Gerda Gollwitzer and Werner Wirsing outlined the principles of modern &lt;br /&gt;greenroofs in their book entitled Roof Areas Inhabited, Viable, and Covered by &lt;br /&gt;Vegetation.  Hans-Joachim Liesecke outlined the basis for intensive greenroofs &lt;br /&gt;in his 1972 report entitled Dach und Terrassengärten [Roof and Terrace &lt;br /&gt;Gardens].  Others followed, notably Kolb, Hans Luz, Hans Kienle, and Bernd &lt;br /&gt;Krupka. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Acceptance of greenroofs in the European marketplace came in the 1980s, &lt;br /&gt;when systems were enhanced through use of reliable root barriers and &lt;br /&gt;sophisticated forms of buildup that guaranteed safety and a long lifespan.  Credit &lt;br /&gt;for many of these developments goes to the German greenroof companies ZinCo, &lt;br /&gt;optima (now split into two companies, optima and Optigrün), and Bauder.  They &lt;br /&gt; 6 &lt;br /&gt;were the pioneers of modern greenroof technology, especially with regard to root &lt;br /&gt;resistant bituminous waterproofing. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Pioneers and proponents of greenroofs in North America from the early &lt;br /&gt;1990s include Tom Liptan, ASLA, of the City of Portland, Oregon; Charlie Miller, &lt;br /&gt;P.E., of Roofscapes, Inc.; Katrin Scholz-Barth, a civil and environmental engineer; &lt;br /&gt;and especially two prominent veteran landscape architects from the sphere of &lt;br /&gt;traditional roof garden design -- Cornelia Hahn Oberlander, FCSLA, FASLA, in &lt;br /&gt;Canada, and Theodore Osmundson, FASLA, in the United States. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Two Greenroof Types:  Extensive and Intensive &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs are vegetated roofs with engineered soil (also known as the &lt;br /&gt;substrate or growth media) and plants layered above a concrete, wood, or metal &lt;br /&gt;roof deck.  They can substitute for gravel, shingle or tiles.  Imagine a roof &lt;br /&gt;lasagna-like assembly with a meadow on top. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The bottom line is that the plants are planted directly onto the roof, not just &lt;br /&gt;in containers.  The layers vary from system to system, and certain elements vary &lt;br /&gt;in their placement above the roof deck.  At the very least, however, all greenroofs &lt;br /&gt;include waterproofing (single or multi-ply), drainage, soil, and plants. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Over the past 35 years, sound German engineering, technology &lt;br /&gt;developments, and testing standards have led to greenroof systems that range &lt;br /&gt;from virtually maintenance free to quite elaborate. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; There are two main types of greenroofs -- extensive and intensive (also &lt;br /&gt;referred to as low-profile and high-profile); the names indicate maintenance &lt;br /&gt;requirements.  The two designs can also be combined. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The type of greenroof that is appropriate for a given application must be &lt;br /&gt;determined by the site owner and designer, with a view to how the roof is to &lt;br /&gt;function.  Greenroofs can be used successfully in both new and retrofit &lt;br /&gt;construction.  They are limited only by the slope or pitch of the roof, existing load &lt;br /&gt;requirements, and budget factors.   &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; See Exhibit 1 on the following page for a chart describing the differences &lt;br /&gt;between extensive and intensive greenroofs. &lt;br /&gt; 7 &lt;br /&gt;Extensive vs. Intensive Greenroofs &lt;br /&gt;Low-Profile/ Ecoroofs      High-Profile/ Roof Gardens &lt;br /&gt;• Low growth media: 1”–6” &lt;br /&gt;• Lightweight: 12 –50 lbs/sf &lt;br /&gt;• Low growing plants: 1”–24”H &lt;br /&gt;• Less variety of plants: Alpine &lt;br /&gt;types, succulents, herbs, some &lt;br /&gt;grasses and mosses &lt;br /&gt;• Usually non-accessible &lt;br /&gt;• Slopes up to 30°&amp; higher &lt;br /&gt;• Less expensive: $12-$25/sf &lt;br /&gt;• Low water requirements &lt;br /&gt;• Low maintenance &lt;br /&gt;• &gt; 6”-15’ and deeper &lt;br /&gt;• Heavier weights: 50 lbs/sf + &lt;br /&gt;• Trees, shrubs and more &lt;br /&gt;• Huge variety of plant selection, &lt;br /&gt;depending on loads, design &amp; &lt;br /&gt;budget &lt;br /&gt;• Designed for human recreation &lt;br /&gt;• Relatively flat &lt;br /&gt;• More expensive: $25-$40/sf + &lt;br /&gt;• Irrigation usually necessary &lt;br /&gt;• Higher maintenance &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Extensive Greenroofs &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Extensive greenroofs employ fewer and thinner build-up layers, and thus &lt;br /&gt;are lighter and less expensive systems.  They are used when the owner primarily &lt;br /&gt;desires an ecological roof cover with limited or no access for recreation.  Less &lt;br /&gt;growth media is used, and the appropriate plants are low-growing, hardy Alpine &lt;br /&gt;types. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Plants for extensive greenroofs must be tolerant of high heat, drought, &lt;br /&gt;wind, and frost.  They must also be self-regenerative in nature, and have low &lt;br /&gt;maintenance requirements overall. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Media depths range from one inch up to about six inches.  A popular &lt;br /&gt;misconception is that a flat roof is ideal, but in fact flat roofs present drainage &lt;br /&gt;issues.  Ideally the roof should have a gentle slope of at least 1.5 - 2% to allow &lt;br /&gt;for natural drainage properties.  Generally, extensive greenroofs can be installed &lt;br /&gt;on slopes of up to 30°, although there are greenroofs with 40° slopes.  &lt;br /&gt;Reinforcement will be necessary at steeper pitches using cross battens or &lt;br /&gt;underlying grid structures to hold the plants and engineered soil in place, as well &lt;br /&gt;as to deal with wind shear. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Roofs with strong wind uplift or with slopes 15° and higher should be &lt;br /&gt;protected during establishment with an erosion control net in the form of jute or &lt;br /&gt;other natural biodegradable fiber. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 8 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Intensive Greenroofs &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Intensive greenroofs look more like a traditional roof garden.  They can &lt;br /&gt;incorporate a much wider variety of plants (such as flowering shrubs, vegetables, &lt;br /&gt;and even trees) because the substrate depths can be designed to be as deep as &lt;br /&gt;the designed roof load will support.  Depths start at about six inches up to 15 feet. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The main difference between a roof garden and an intensive greenroof is &lt;br /&gt;that a greenroofing system is applied on top of the entire roof deck surface, &lt;br /&gt;allowing unimpeded drainage and a more even weight distribution over the whole &lt;br /&gt;roof. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Architectural accents -- such as waterfalls, ponds, seating areas, and the &lt;br /&gt;like -- can be part of an intensive greenroof system.  Such roofs can provide &lt;br /&gt;recreation areas where people can interact with nature and with one another.  &lt;br /&gt;These systems can take advantage of otherwise forgotten (and usually ugly) &lt;br /&gt;rooftop space by creating active areas for contemplation and play. &lt;br /&gt;  &lt;br /&gt;The Advantages of Greenroofs &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Loss of greenspace and its inherent natural processes are by-products of &lt;br /&gt;our modern "asphalt jungle."  Plants and engineered soil atop a greenroof &lt;br /&gt;enhance the environment through the natural processes of evapotranspiration &lt;br /&gt;and photosynthesis, thereby ameliorating the surrounding ecosystem. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The specific benefits of (and market drivers for) greenroofs run the gamut &lt;br /&gt;from easing environmental stress to creating an eco-friendly corporate image to &lt;br /&gt;reestablishing endangered bird species.  The following sections discuss the &lt;br /&gt;advantages of greenroofs in more detail.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Environmental Benefits &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Stormwater Management &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs reduce stormwater volume and slow down water flow, thus &lt;br /&gt;helping to alleviate the pressure on stormwater infrastructure systems. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Many large, older U.S. cities (such as New York, Philadelphia, and San &lt;br /&gt;Francisco) have combined sewer systems where wastewater from storm drains &lt;br /&gt;and sewage pipes is intermingled.  During heavy rains, runoff from impervious &lt;br /&gt;surfaces such as rooftops and pavements can cause overflow in already over- &lt;br /&gt;burdened systems, resulting in contamination of lakes, rivers, and other &lt;br /&gt;freshwater sources.  Exhibit 2 shows the percentage of impervious cover that is &lt;br /&gt;typical of various contemporary land use types. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 9 &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs capture and retain huge amounts of water that otherwise &lt;br /&gt;would go down the storm drains, absorbing anywhere between 50 to 95 percent &lt;br /&gt;of the rain that falls on site.  Factors affecting retention rates include the intensity &lt;br /&gt;of the storm, depth of media, and plant mass. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The intelligent use of best management practices (BMPs) includes &lt;br /&gt;greenroofs that intercept and delay rainfall runoff and reduce the peak flow rate.  &lt;br /&gt;These practices can result in significant environmental improvements, as well as &lt;br /&gt;long-term savings to building owners and municipalities. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Redrawn from Bruce Ferguson's "Introduction to Stormwater: Concept, Purpose, Design," 1998. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Water Quality Improvement &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs also filter and cool water runoff.  They can help prevent &lt;br /&gt;nitrogen, phosphorus, and toxins from entering streams and waterways.  Heavy &lt;br /&gt;metals and nutrients found in stormwater are bound in the engineered soil of the &lt;br /&gt;greenroof instead of being discharged into groundwater or streams and rivers.  &lt;br /&gt; 10 &lt;br /&gt;Greenroofs can remove over 95 percent of the cadmium, copper, and lead, and &lt;br /&gt;16 percent of the zinc, from rainwater.  They can also substantially reduce &lt;br /&gt;nitrogen levels.7 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Coastal cities such as Seattle and Portland, Oregon, have experienced &lt;br /&gt;warming of the water in their rivers and bays resulting from discharge of heated &lt;br /&gt;stormwater.  This temperature change can greatly affect the health of cold water &lt;br /&gt;fish populations, such as salmon. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can help counteract this effect.  They act as a sponge, &lt;br /&gt;absorbing the majority of rain that falls on site.  The remaining water that does &lt;br /&gt;eventually run off is filtered and cooled through evapotranspiration made possible &lt;br /&gt;by the plants and engineered soil medium. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Heat Mitigation &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In natural landscapes, vegetative canopy biomass greatly lowers air &lt;br /&gt;temperatures.  By contrast, the artificial and altered surfaces common in urban &lt;br /&gt;land- and roofscapes greatly raises them.  Average city rooftops can easily reach &lt;br /&gt;150 to 175°F in the summer. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In urban areas, tightly sealed surfaces -- such as asphalt and concrete in &lt;br /&gt;parking lots and on rooftops --  soak up heat during the day and then reradiate it &lt;br /&gt;back into the Earth’s atmosphere after sunset as thermal infrared radiation. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; This creates an urban "heat island" effect, with the heat that is released at &lt;br /&gt;night forming a dome of higher temperatures over the city.  The temperature in &lt;br /&gt;downtown Atlanta, Georgia, for example, often is 10°F warmer than that of the &lt;br /&gt;surrounding outlying areas.  Urban heat islands contribute to our growing global &lt;br /&gt;warming problem, and can also affect the local weather by creating unproductive &lt;br /&gt;convective thunderstorms. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Used on a large scale, greenroof infrastructure could help reduce the &lt;br /&gt;urban heat island effect by lowering ambient air temperatures.  A 2002 study in &lt;br /&gt;Toronto by Environment Canada estimated that urban temperatures could dip by &lt;br /&gt;1 to 2°C if just six percent of the city’s roof tops were green.8 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Chicago has adopted an energy conservation ordinance that includes an &lt;br /&gt;urban heat island reduction provision.  The ordinance, which became effective in &lt;br /&gt;June 2002, includes minimum standards for solar reflectance and emissivity as &lt;br /&gt;set by the International ASTM (formerly known as The American Society for &lt;br /&gt;Testing and Materials).  The ordinance requires all new and refurbished roofs to &lt;br /&gt;install greenroofs or reflective roofing. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 11 &lt;br /&gt;Air Quality Improvement &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In urban downtown areas, ventilation is sometimes inhibited by tall &lt;br /&gt;buildings, which reduce wind speed and trap heat in air pockets.  Pollutants can &lt;br /&gt;remain suspended for days. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can filter and bind dust particles, and naturally filter airborne &lt;br /&gt;toxins.  Smog, sulphur dioxide, carbon dioxide, and other pollutants are absorbed &lt;br /&gt;and filtered through the foliage, naturally cleansing the air.  Atmospheric dust is &lt;br /&gt;held until rain washes it off into the greenroof soil substrate. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can also help mitigate the ozone problem in urban areas by &lt;br /&gt;reducing the heat island effect, which contributes to ozone creation.  In Atlanta, &lt;br /&gt;the heat island effect doubles the amount of ozone that is produced. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Studies have shown that an increase in ozone levels adversely affects &lt;br /&gt;sufferers of asthma and other breathing conditions.  Increasing vegetated areas, &lt;br /&gt;including greenroofs, can greatly improve air quality.9 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Erosion and Sedimentation Control &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can help protect watersheds and sewer systems.  They act as &lt;br /&gt;erosion barriers by reducing stormwater volumes, and assist in the control of &lt;br /&gt;sediment transport and soil erosion.  Plants and media properties (friction, root &lt;br /&gt;absorption, and substrate matter) can prevent substances from entering a stream &lt;br /&gt;corridor or other body of water. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Wildlife Habitat Conservation, Creation, and Restoration   &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Although greenroofs are not intended to be replacements for natural areas &lt;br /&gt;located at ground level, they nevertheless can provide some habitat for wildlife.  &lt;br /&gt;In a landscape ecological context, greenroofs create an artificial or man-made &lt;br /&gt;edge, while also serving as a vegetative habitat patch. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; These greenroof patches, set within the matrix of a city, can accomplish &lt;br /&gt;several ecological functions.  If multiple greenroofs were grouped and designed &lt;br /&gt;as vegetated corridors, some semblance of landscape connectivity could be &lt;br /&gt;achieved. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Such corridors could offer respite for migrating birds and butterflies.  &lt;br /&gt;Studies show that birds will travel up to 19 stories, and butterflies up to 20 stories, &lt;br /&gt;above ground in search of food and cover. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Even in densely populated areas, greenroofs can attract beneficial insects, &lt;br /&gt;birds, bees, and butterflies.  Such greenspace also can introduce or increase &lt;br /&gt;biodiversity into a highly urbanized setting.  In the UK and Switzerland, for &lt;br /&gt; 12 &lt;br /&gt;example, researchers are monitoring the levels of endangered bird, spider, and &lt;br /&gt;other invertebrate species which were found to have come back to the city after &lt;br /&gt;construction of greenroofs on previously disturbed sites. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Economic Benefits &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Establishment of a thriving greenroof industry could have innumerable &lt;br /&gt;effects on the economy, including the creation of many new jobs in &lt;br /&gt;manufacturing, construction, and design, as well as in installation and other &lt;br /&gt;services. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroof construction usually entails higher initial costs, but life cycle &lt;br /&gt;analysis reveals that these costs can be offset through extension of the life of the &lt;br /&gt;roof, avoided maintenance and replacement costs, reduction in cooling and &lt;br /&gt;heating costs, increased developable space, reductions in local impact fees, and &lt;br /&gt;the opportunity to take advantage of the amenity of greenspace at roof level. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Other economic benefits may be harder to quantify, but include acoustical &lt;br /&gt;insulation (resulting in noise suppression effects ranging from 8 dB up to 50 dB), &lt;br /&gt;glare reduction, decreased charges for stormwater infrastructure rehabilitation, &lt;br /&gt;and the goodwill and publicity generated from having a high-profile greenroof &lt;br /&gt;project. &lt;br /&gt;  &lt;br /&gt; Some of the key economic benefits of greenroofs are discussed in more &lt;br /&gt;detail below. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Increased Roof Longevity &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs in Europe have easily lasted from 40 to 75 years, or even &lt;br /&gt;much longer.  Common theory holds that roof life can be at least doubled, and &lt;br /&gt;perhaps tripled or more, with a greenroof.  The main reason for this is that the &lt;br /&gt;multiple layers protect the waterproofing membrane and structural elements from &lt;br /&gt;damaging ultraviolet rays, wind, and temperature fluctuation extremes. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In Europe, Japan, and North America, major greenroof providers will issue &lt;br /&gt;at least a 20-year assembly warranty and performance guarantee.  In Germany, &lt;br /&gt;direct greenroof subsidies are available in about 30 cities.  They range from &lt;br /&gt;$0.51 to $6.20 per square foot, based on avoided maintenance and replacement &lt;br /&gt;costs. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Reduced Energy Consumption and Costs &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Thermally insulating greenroofs offer energy savings.  Benefits vary by &lt;br /&gt;geographic region and type of system, but it is agreed that they can reduce peak &lt;br /&gt;energy demand by lowering cooling and heating needs, at least for the floor &lt;br /&gt;directly below the greenroof. &lt;br /&gt; 13 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Some experts argue that some published energy reports have been &lt;br /&gt;exaggerated.  They nevertheless agree it is impossible to issue blanket &lt;br /&gt;statements regarding energy savings for every region of the world, since many &lt;br /&gt;factors contribute to the figures.  When estimating energy savings, it is essential &lt;br /&gt;to study each climate individually, using thermodynamic data. &lt;br /&gt;  &lt;br /&gt; That said, in December 2000, Weston Solutions design consultants &lt;br /&gt;conducted an energy study for the City of Chicago which estimated that it would &lt;br /&gt;be possible to save $100,000,000 in avoided energy costs annually with the &lt;br /&gt;greening of all the city's rooftops.  The study's bottom line stated that "[p]eak &lt;br /&gt;demand would be cut by 720 megawatts -- the equivalent energy consumption of &lt;br /&gt;several coal-fired generating stations or one small nuclear power plant.”  Weston &lt;br /&gt;also declared that, in general, reductions of up to 50 percent of cooling costs and &lt;br /&gt;25 percent of heating costs could be achieved, at least for the floor directly below &lt;br /&gt;the greenroof.10 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; A 2003 study commissioned by Seattle's Office of Sustainability and the &lt;br /&gt;Environment states that the Seattle Justice Center is saving as much as &lt;br /&gt;$148,000 each year due to its greenroof.11 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Understanding how heat moves through a greenroof can be tricky, &lt;br /&gt;however.  Engineer and energy modeler Chris Wark of Green Roof Innovations &lt;br /&gt;explains: &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Energy usage is reduced primarily due to the solar heat &lt;br /&gt;management of the foliage and thermal mass of the soil substrate &lt;br /&gt;(not the plants).  Plant leaves transfer nearly all excess solar &lt;br /&gt;energy to the surrounding air and absorb the rest, while the soil &lt;br /&gt;mass provides an additional benefit of dampening temperature &lt;br /&gt;fluctuations.  Leaf transpiration is one of the ways in which the solar &lt;br /&gt;heat is transferred to the air.  If enough water is available, &lt;br /&gt;additional heat can be removed from the plant, but this is a minor &lt;br /&gt;effect with succulents.  The fact that leaf temperatures of many &lt;br /&gt;different studied plants tends toward ambient air temperatures &lt;br /&gt;proves this.  In most cases, a green roof comes with a heating &lt;br /&gt;penalty if any moisture is at all retained in the soil (and it is). &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Chris and Wendy Wark have reported results from a study done on &lt;br /&gt;commercial buildings in Northern California using DOE-212 and a proprietary roof &lt;br /&gt;heat transfer model developed by their parent company, Shade Consulting.  &lt;br /&gt;Their study indicated that an uninsulated greenroof could reduce the building &lt;br /&gt;heating/cooling system's demand for most of the year by 30 percent over a &lt;br /&gt;conventional dark roof with R-18 rigid insulation and without a radiation barrier.13 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 14 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Increased Developable Space &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Major cities that are embracing sustainable design have acknowledged &lt;br /&gt;the economic benefits of greenroofs and are helping to pass the savings they &lt;br /&gt;generate along to owners and builders.  For example, city officials may reduce &lt;br /&gt;impervious coverage requirements for developers who incorporate greenroofs &lt;br /&gt;into their site plans. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Depending on local ordinances and applicable BMPs, officials may allow &lt;br /&gt;greenroofs to be installed in lieu of conventional stormwater management &lt;br /&gt;elements.  Greenroofs can significantly reduce the required size of unsightly, &lt;br /&gt;space-wasting, and expensive retention ponds or underground galleries, or even &lt;br /&gt;completely eliminate the need for these elements. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In some cities, floor-to-area development ratios can also be increased.  In &lt;br /&gt;Portland, Oregon, for example, builders can now increase their floor area ratio &lt;br /&gt;(FAR) when they include a greenroof that covers at least 60 percent of the roof &lt;br /&gt;surface.  This FAR bonus grants an additional three square feet of floor area per &lt;br /&gt;square foot of greenroof, to be added to the footprint of the building. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The City of Chicago also increases development square footage, known &lt;br /&gt;as floor area premiums, when developments include public amenities such as &lt;br /&gt;greenroofs. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Reduced Local Impact Fees and Increased Incentives &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Reduced stormwater and impervious cover fees, as well as energy credits, &lt;br /&gt;grants, and tax incentives for greenroofs, have been in place in European &lt;br /&gt;countries such as Germany, the Netherlands, Switzerland, and Sweden for &lt;br /&gt;decades.  For example, some German municipalities offer stormwater fee &lt;br /&gt;reductions of 50 to 80 percent. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Cities in the United States and Canada are now beginning to offer &lt;br /&gt;incentives as well.  Portland, Oregon plans to reduce stormwater utility fees for &lt;br /&gt;buildings with greenroofs by July 2006.  The City's Clean River Incentive and &lt;br /&gt;Discount Program promotes placement of ecoroofs atop commercial, industrial, &lt;br /&gt;institutional, multi-family, and single family residential properties. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; New York, Seattle, Chicago, Toronto, Vancouver, St. Paul, Atlanta, and &lt;br /&gt;several cities around Washington, D.C., are among those working toward &lt;br /&gt;reducing various fees in exchange for greenroof development. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 15 &lt;br /&gt;Greenroofs as Stormwater Mitigation Measures &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can sometimes be used as stormwater mitigation measures.  &lt;br /&gt;In Portland, Oregon, all building projects that will result in at least 500 square feet &lt;br /&gt;(46 square meters) of impervious surface are required to implement stormwater &lt;br /&gt;pollution reduction and flow control measures.  Greenroofs are recognized as &lt;br /&gt;one of the acceptable approaches to meeting this requirement.14 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Greenroofs as Heat Island Measures &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In a concerted effort to combat the ever-increasing urban heat island &lt;br /&gt;effect in Tokyo, the city's "Tokyo Plan 2000" was implemented on April 1, 2001.  &lt;br /&gt;It requires new buildings that are larger than 1,000 square meters (10,000 square &lt;br /&gt;feet), or over one-quarter acre, to green at least 20 percent of their useable roof &lt;br /&gt;space. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Other countries considering these types of measures include South Korea &lt;br /&gt;and Singapore.  In the U.S., cities like New York would also greatly benefit from &lt;br /&gt;such measures. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Increased Points in the LEED™ Rating System &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) has developed and oversees &lt;br /&gt;the LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Green Building &lt;br /&gt;Rating System®, a voluntary, consensus-based national standard for developing &lt;br /&gt;high-performance, sustainable buildings.  The four levels of certification include &lt;br /&gt;LEED™ Certified, Silver Level, Gold Level, and Platinum Level.  Greenroofs &lt;br /&gt;qualify for at least six points in three categories, and more points are possible &lt;br /&gt;under specific conditions. &lt;br /&gt;   &lt;br /&gt; Many local, state, and federal agencies have adopted sustainable design &lt;br /&gt;stipulations that adhere to LEED™ principles.  For example, in 2000, the City of &lt;br /&gt;Seattle adopted its Sustainable Building Policy, which requires many new city &lt;br /&gt;buildings to attain a Silver LEED™ certification rating.  The requirement applies &lt;br /&gt;to new and renovated city facilities that are larger than 5,000 square feet. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The General Services Administration (GSA), a federal agency, requires &lt;br /&gt;buildings to be certified through LEED™, and encourages them to achieve a &lt;br /&gt;Silver LEED.  EPA requires Silver LEED™ certification for new significant &lt;br /&gt;building construction or acquisition.  NASA encourages its designers to strive for &lt;br /&gt;a LEED™ Gold rating, if cost effective.15 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Increased Building Marketability &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; High-rise apartments, office space, and even hotel rooms with the &lt;br /&gt;enhanced natural view afforded by greenroofs can support higher rents or room &lt;br /&gt; 16 &lt;br /&gt;rates and help maintain increased levels of occupancy.  Resale prices also &lt;br /&gt;increase with the added value of additional greenspace. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Emerging Synergy with Solar Power &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can be successfully combined with solar power projects.  In &lt;br /&gt;Germany, construction of such combined projects has generated significant &lt;br /&gt;interest. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Studies show that the cooler temperatures found on a greenroof enhance &lt;br /&gt;the performance of photovoltaics, while the greenroof buildup provides a steady &lt;br /&gt;base for solar installations. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Combining greenroofs with solar power not only will capitalize on the &lt;br /&gt;technologies' energy use reduction potential, but also will help create a &lt;br /&gt;renewable energy source -- all without utilizing more land.16 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Aesthetic Benefits &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The restoration and revitalization of our cities should include adapting &lt;br /&gt;exterior architecture to meet the desires of communities.  Few people would deny &lt;br /&gt;that urban areas are enhanced with the natural beauty and soothing aesthetics of &lt;br /&gt;living roofs. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; The sections that follow briefly detail some of the aesthetic benefits of &lt;br /&gt;greenroofs.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Visual Relief &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Commercial and industrial roofs no longer need to be unattractive, harsh &lt;br /&gt;eyesores.  With the addition of greenroofs, we can create pleasing, vigorous, &lt;br /&gt;sustainable native and naturalized plant communities.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Integration into Natural Surroundings &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can help buildings blend unobtrusively into suburban areas or &lt;br /&gt;the open countryside.  Overhead views could actually be camouflaged if the &lt;br /&gt;planting design mimicked its surroundings. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Varied Design Possibilities &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can be designed in many different forms, and can be used on &lt;br /&gt;sloped or flat roofs.  Some owners might want naturalistic landscapes that &lt;br /&gt;resemble meadows planted with wildflower drifts.  Others might prefer wildly &lt;br /&gt;geometric plans. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 17 &lt;br /&gt;Psychological Benefits &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Recreating natural landscapes through greenroofs can create beauty that &lt;br /&gt;is soothing to our psyches.  And in utilizing greenroofs, we also accomplish many &lt;br /&gt;other objectives that help fulfill our need for purpose. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Through greenroofing, we nurture the built environment and incorporate &lt;br /&gt;the tenets of high-performance building and environmentally preferable design.  &lt;br /&gt;We help clean the air and water, and promote energy efficiency.  We create &lt;br /&gt;ecologically sustainable sites.  We make better use of cultural and natural &lt;br /&gt;resources and materials. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Some of the key psychological benefits of greenroofs are highlighted in &lt;br /&gt;the sections that follow.   &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Appealing to Biophilia &lt;br /&gt;  &lt;br /&gt; A connection to nature appears to be a part of our evolutionary heritage -- &lt;br /&gt;a concept that sometimes is called "biophilia." &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Perhaps because of this connection, being able to view and experience &lt;br /&gt;nature is excellent for our mental heath.  Therapeutic roof gardens are becoming &lt;br /&gt;popular in hospitals, care centers, and similar settings.  Experiencing the change &lt;br /&gt;of seasons is life-reassuring. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Frederick Law Olmstead, who is recognized as the founder of American &lt;br /&gt;landscape architecture, once said, "Humans have physiological reactions to &lt;br /&gt;natural beauty and diversity, to the shapes and colors of nature, especially to &lt;br /&gt;green, and to the motions and sounds of other animals."17  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Making Employees Happier &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; If you were working in a typical stark office environment, what would you &lt;br /&gt;rather look down onto -- a natural scene (such as a flowing riverscape or &lt;br /&gt;flowering meadow) or a dreary grey and black expanse of roofs? &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Clearly, greenroofs have the potential to make workers happier by &lt;br /&gt;enhancing their surroundings.  This in turn could improve business profitability &lt;br /&gt;since it has been theorized that enhancing the emotional or physical comfort of &lt;br /&gt;employees can increase productivity and lower absenteeism.   &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs help visually ease the stress created by the lack of &lt;br /&gt;greenspace in urban buildings.  Natural views reduce aggression and increase &lt;br /&gt;calm.   &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 18 &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Fostering a Sense of Community &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; Greenroofs can create sustainable interactive community spaces where &lt;br /&gt;people can garden, visit, play, and relax together.  They also offer opportunities &lt;br /&gt;for educating the public through displays and interpretive signage describing the &lt;br /&gt;greenroof design process.  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Conclusion &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; With greenroofs, we can make the decision to design with nature, instead &lt;br /&gt;of against her.  Greenroofs can help mitigate some of our most pressing urban &lt;br /&gt;development issues, while also allowing us to reap economic benefits through &lt;br /&gt;reducing various building-associated costs and promoting a growing design and &lt;br /&gt;construction industry.  Organic greenroof architecture can actually help restore &lt;br /&gt;the health of Earth’s ecology. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Next Time &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; In a followup article that will appear in a future issue of this journal, I plan &lt;br /&gt;to offer more detail on greenroof design and related issues. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;______________ &lt;br /&gt;Linda S. Velazquez, ASLA Associate, LEED AP, holds a Bachelor's of &lt;br /&gt;Landscape Architecture (cum laude) from the University of Georgia.  She is &lt;br /&gt;founder and publisher of Greenroofs.com, the international greenroof industry's &lt;br /&gt;resource and online information portal, and publisher of The Greenroof Directory &lt;br /&gt;of Manufacturers, Suppliers, Professional Services, Organizations &amp; Green &lt;br /&gt;Resources.  Greenroofs.com serves as a clearinghouse and reference resource &lt;br /&gt;for articles, upcoming events, and organizations, and includes the global &lt;br /&gt;Greenroof Projects Database, a free online resource.  Greenroofs.com is listed &lt;br /&gt;by the USGBC's LEED Green Building System as the website resource for green, &lt;br /&gt;or vegetated, roofs.  Ms Velazquez is a LEED Accredited Professional who &lt;br /&gt;designs, consults, and presents on greenroofs nationally and internationally.  She &lt;br /&gt;has written and reported extensively about greenroofs, including her bi-monthly &lt;br /&gt;column entitled "Sky Gardens -- Travels in Landscape Architecture" on &lt;br /&gt;Greenroofs.com.  For more information, see www.greenroofs.com. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; 19 &lt;br /&gt;Notes &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;                     &lt;br /&gt;1 &lt;br /&gt; Office of the Federal Environmental Executive (2003, &lt;br /&gt;September).  The Federal Commitment to Green Building:  &lt;br /&gt;Experiences and Expectations.  Available at &lt;br /&gt;http://www.ofee.gov/sb/fgb_report.pdf &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;2 &lt;br /&gt; Unless otherwise noted, all information cited in this &lt;br /&gt;article comes from either Greenroofs.com or the research of &lt;br /&gt;Linda S. Velazquez. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;3 &lt;br /&gt; U.S. Census Bureau (2004, March).  Global Population at a &lt;br /&gt;Glance:  2002 and Beyond.  Available at &lt;br /&gt;http://www.census.gov/ipc/prod/wp02/wp02-1.pdf,  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;4 &lt;br /&gt; Data on resource consumption, fossil fuel use, and species &lt;br /&gt;depletion comes from The World Wildlife Fund's 2004 Living &lt;br /&gt;Planet Report.  Available at &lt;br /&gt;http://www.worldwildlife.org/about/lpr2004.pdf &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;5 &lt;br /&gt; English Nature (2003).  Green Roofs:  Their Existing &lt;br /&gt;Status and Potential for Conserving Biodiversity in Urban &lt;br /&gt;Areas.  English Nature Research Report Number 498.  &lt;br /&gt;Available at http://www.english- &lt;br /&gt;nature.org.uk/news/news_photo/Greenroofs.pdf &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;6 &lt;br /&gt; Wark, C.G., &amp; Wark, W.W. (2003, August).  Green Roof &lt;br /&gt;Specifications and Standards.  The Construction Specifier, &lt;br /&gt;56(8).  Available at  &lt;br /&gt;http://www.greenroofs.com/pdfs/newslinks- &lt;br /&gt;803_construction_specifier.pdf &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;7 &lt;br /&gt; Johnston, J., &amp; Newton, J. (1993).  Building Green:  A &lt;br /&gt;Guide to Using Plants on Roofs, Walls and Pavements.  &lt;br /&gt;London:  London Ecology Unit. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;8 &lt;br /&gt; National Research Council Canada Press Release (2002, &lt;br /&gt;October 9).  Government of Canada Reveals Major Greenhouse &lt;br /&gt;Gas Reductions and Air Quality Benefits from Widespread Use &lt;br /&gt;of "GreenRoofs."  Available at http://www.nrc- &lt;br /&gt;cnrc.gc.ca/newsroom/news/2002/green02_e.html &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;9 &lt;br /&gt; Duffy, K. (2004, April 18).  NASA Studies How to Cool Area &lt;br /&gt;as Heat Builds Up.  Atlanta Journal Constitution.  &lt;br /&gt;Available at &lt;br /&gt; 20 &lt;br /&gt;                                                             &lt;br /&gt;http://www.ajc.com/news/content/business/horizon/0404/19pav &lt;br /&gt;ement.html?urcm=y  &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;10 &lt;br /&gt; Urban Heat Island Initiative Pilot Project:  Final Report &lt;br /&gt;(2000, May 9).  Prepared for the City of Chicago by Roy F. &lt;br /&gt;Weston, Inc. (now Weston Solutions, Inc). &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;11 &lt;br /&gt; Steinbrueck, P. (2005, January 13).  Putting a Green Cap &lt;br /&gt;Atop the Emerald City.  The Seattle Times.  Available at &lt;br /&gt;http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/opinion/2002149359_st &lt;br /&gt;einbrueck13.html &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;12 &lt;br /&gt; DOE-2 calculates the hourly energy use and energy cost of &lt;br /&gt;a commercial or residential building based on information &lt;br /&gt;about the building’s climate, construction, operation, and &lt;br /&gt;utility rate schedule, and its heating, ventilating, and &lt;br /&gt;air-conditioning (HVAC) equipment. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;13 &lt;br /&gt; Chris Wark, personal communication, November 2004. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;14 &lt;br /&gt; Environmental Building News, 10(11). &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;15 &lt;br /&gt; Office of the Federal Environmental Executive (2003, &lt;br /&gt;September).  The Federal Commitment to Green Building:  &lt;br /&gt;Experiences and Expectations.  Available at &lt;br /&gt;http://www.ofee.gov/sb/fgb_report.pdf &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;16 &lt;br /&gt; Alt, F. (2004, September 14).  Future Oriented &lt;br /&gt;Technologies:  Green Roofs and Solar Power.  Presentation &lt;br /&gt;at the International Green Roof Congress 2004. &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;17 &lt;br /&gt; Quoted in Dramstad, W.E., Olson, J.D., &amp; Forman, R.T.T. &lt;br /&gt;(1996).  Landscape Ecology Principles in Landscape &lt;br /&gt;Architecture and Land-Use Planning, Cambridge, &lt;br /&gt;Massachusetts:  Harvard University Graduate School of &lt;br /&gt;Design.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-799616479397650385?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/799616479397650385/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=799616479397650385' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/799616479397650385'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/799616479397650385'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/12/greenroof-basics.html' title='Organic Greenroof Architecture'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/R2aWgqyv-eI/AAAAAAAAAIY/pCfdtTozyHw/s72-c/greenroof1.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-3481178457997929318</id><published>2007-10-30T11:59:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-30T12:17:08.544-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Elm-American'/><title type='text'>American Elm</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyeDDjRyOJI/AAAAAAAAAII/YGNnqAmIu98/s1600-h/elmame.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyeDDjRyOJI/AAAAAAAAAII/YGNnqAmIu98/s400/elmame.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5127210797817280658" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;American Elm &lt;br /&gt;(Ulmus americana) &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;General Description &lt;br /&gt;The state tree of North Dakota. A large vase-shaped tree &lt;br /&gt;adapted to a wide variety of sites. No longer recom- &lt;br /&gt;mended because of its susceptibility to Dutch Elm Disease. &lt;br /&gt;The largest tree in North Dakota is 62 feet tall with a &lt;br /&gt;canopy spread of 74 feet.&lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Leaves and Buds &lt;br /&gt;Bud Arrangement - Alternate. &lt;br /&gt;Bud Color - Smooth, sharp-pointed, and reddish-brown. &lt;br /&gt;Bud Size - Lateral buds are small, 1/4 inch long. &lt;br /&gt;Leaf Type and Shape - Simple, unequal at the base, &lt;br /&gt;ovate-oblong. &lt;br /&gt;Leaf Margins - Doubly-serrate. &lt;br /&gt;Leaf Surface - Glabrous to rough above, pubescent or &lt;br /&gt;nearly glabrous beneath. &lt;br /&gt;Leaf Length - 3 to 6 inches. &lt;br /&gt;Leaf Width - 2 to 3 inches. &lt;br /&gt;Leaf Color - Dark-green above, lighter green below; Yello Fall Collor&lt;br /&gt;Flowers and Fruits &lt;br /&gt;Flower Type - Polygamo-monoecious, in fascicles of 3 or 4. &lt;br /&gt;Flower Color - Greenish-red to brownish. &lt;br /&gt;Fruit Type - Winged samara, oval-globose and wafer-like &lt;br /&gt;in appearance, notched. &lt;br /&gt;Fruit Color - Light-green, changing to tan. &lt;br /&gt;Form &lt;br /&gt;Growth Habit - Trunk divides into several erect arching &lt;br /&gt;limbs above, umbrella to vase-shaped. &lt;br /&gt;Texture - Medium-coarse, summer; medium-coarse, &lt;br /&gt;winter. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Crown Height - 45 to 65 feet. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Crown Width - 30 to 50 feet. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bark Color - Dark gray-brown, with broad ridges and &lt;br /&gt;deep furrows. &lt;br /&gt;Root System - Root spread is greater than height. Root &lt;br /&gt;system is shallow, fibrous, and in dry areas may have a tap &lt;br /&gt;root. &lt;br /&gt;Environmental Requirements &lt;br /&gt;Soils &lt;br /&gt;Soil Texture - Grows best in rich, moist, well-drained soils, &lt;br /&gt;but adapts to a wide range of soil types. &lt;br /&gt;Soil pH - 5.5 to 8.0. &lt;br /&gt;Windbreak Suitability Group - 1, 1K, 3, 4, 4C, 5. &lt;br /&gt;Cold Hardiness &lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 2. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Water &lt;br /&gt;Drought tolerant, but prolonged drought stress predis- &lt;br /&gt;poses trees to pests. Tolerant of infrequent, short duration &lt;br /&gt;flooding during the growing season. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Light &lt;br /&gt;Full sun to partial shade. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Uses &lt;br /&gt;Conservation/Windbreaks &lt;br /&gt;Tall tree for farmstead and field windbreaks, and riparian &lt;br /&gt;plantings. &lt;br /&gt;Wildlife &lt;br /&gt;Seed, buds, and tender young twigs are used as food by &lt;br /&gt;birds and mammals, particularly deer. &lt;br /&gt;Agroforestry Products &lt;br /&gt;Wood - Used in fine furniture, boxes, barrels, and crates. &lt;br /&gt;Good for firewood, but hard to split. &lt;br /&gt;Medicinal - Extracts of some Ulmus species have been used &lt;br /&gt;as a demulcent, an astringent, a diuretic, and for inflam- &lt;br /&gt;mation, burns, cold sores and wound treatments. &lt;br /&gt;Urban/Recreational &lt;br /&gt;A favorite tree for all sites, but no longer recommended &lt;br /&gt;because of Dutch Elm Disease. &lt;br /&gt;Cultivated Varieties &lt;br /&gt;Ulmus americana ‘Ascendens’ and ‘Augustine’ - Cultivars &lt;br /&gt;with columnar form. &lt;br /&gt;U. americana ‘Lake City’, ‘Moline’, and ‘Minneapolis Park’ &lt;br /&gt;- Variably vase-shaped. Due to susceptibility to Dutch Elm &lt;br /&gt;disease, the above cultivars are rarely planted (see &lt;br /&gt;Japanese Elm and Siberian Elm for Dutch Elm disease &lt;br /&gt;resistant cultivars.) &lt;br /&gt;Related Species &lt;br /&gt;David Elm (U. davidiana) &lt;br /&gt;European White Elm (Ulmus laevis) &lt;br /&gt;Japanese Elm (U. davidiana var. japonica) &lt;br /&gt;Lincoln Elm (U. rubra ‘Lincoln’) &lt;br /&gt;Rock Elm (U. thomasii) &lt;br /&gt;Slippery Elm (U. rubra) &lt;br /&gt;Pests &lt;br /&gt;Besides Dutch Elm disease, common diseases include &lt;br /&gt;wetwood, black leaf spot, and branch cankers. Common &lt;br /&gt;insect pests include cankerworms and aphids. Deer &lt;br /&gt;browse damage can be serious on young trees.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-3481178457997929318?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/3481178457997929318/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=3481178457997929318' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/3481178457997929318'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/3481178457997929318'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/10/american-elm.html' title='American Elm'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyeDDjRyOJI/AAAAAAAAAII/YGNnqAmIu98/s72-c/elmame.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-1756487604997657611</id><published>2007-10-29T16:02:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-29T16:05:45.831-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Shrub-Viburnum-Mohican'/><title type='text'>Mohican Viburnum</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyZmrjRyODI/AAAAAAAAAHY/9OYu_Nhgk2A/s1600-h/mohican.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyZmrjRyODI/AAAAAAAAAHY/9OYu_Nhgk2A/s400/mohican.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126898124198131762" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Family: Adoxaceae&lt;br /&gt;Genus: Viburnum (vy-BUR-num) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Species: lantana (lan-TAN-uh) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Cultivar: Mohican&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Height:&lt;br /&gt;12-15 ft. (3.6-4.7 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Spacing:&lt;br /&gt;12-15 ft. (3.6-4.7 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Hardiness:&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 3a: to -39.9 °C (-40 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 3b: to -37.2 °C (-35 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 °C (-30 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 °C (-25 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Sun Exposure:&lt;br /&gt;Sun to Partial Shade&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Danger:&lt;br /&gt;Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Color:&lt;br /&gt;White/Near White&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Time:&lt;br /&gt;Late Spring/Early Summer&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Foliage:&lt;br /&gt;Deciduous&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Other details:&lt;br /&gt;Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater&lt;br /&gt;This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Soil pH requirements:&lt;br /&gt;5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)&lt;br /&gt;6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)&lt;br /&gt;6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Propagation Methods:&lt;br /&gt;From softwood cuttings&lt;br /&gt;From semi-hardwood cuttings&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Seed Collecting:&lt;br /&gt;N/A: plant does not set seed, flowers are sterile, or plants will not come true from seed&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-1756487604997657611?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/1756487604997657611/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=1756487604997657611' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1756487604997657611'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1756487604997657611'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/10/mohican-viburnum.html' title='Mohican Viburnum'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyZmrjRyODI/AAAAAAAAAHY/9OYu_Nhgk2A/s72-c/mohican.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-1467693724750764713</id><published>2007-10-27T11:15:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-27T11:53:29.967-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Trees-Elm-Camperdown'/><title type='text'>Camperdown Elm</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyOJAjRyOCI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/y1E6PkmgEi8/s1600-h/Elm_camperdown2002.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyOJAjRyOCI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/y1E6PkmgEi8/s400/Elm_camperdown2002.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126091443440597026" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Family: Ulmaceae (ulm-AY-see-ay) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Genus: Ulmus (ULM-us) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Species: glabra (GLAY-bruh) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Cultivar: Camperdownii&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Category:  Trees&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Height:  20-30 ft. (6-9 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Spacing: 30-40 ft. (9-12 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Hardiness:&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 °C (-30 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 °C (-25 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Sun Exposure:  Sun to Partial Shade&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Danger: NA&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Color: NA&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Time:NA&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Foliage: &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Other details:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Soil pH requirements:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Propagation Methods:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Seed Collecting:&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-1467693724750764713?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/1467693724750764713/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=1467693724750764713' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1467693724750764713'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1467693724750764713'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/10/camperdown-elm.html' title='Camperdown Elm'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyOJAjRyOCI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/y1E6PkmgEi8/s72-c/Elm_camperdown2002.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-2136188628801507474</id><published>2007-10-26T15:33:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-26T15:43:33.559-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Dogwood-Samaritan &apos;Samzam&apos;'/><title type='text'>Cornus kousa var. chinensis Samaritan™ 'Samzam'</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyJrQDRyOAI/AAAAAAAAAHA/8llx_7tk-Io/s1600-h/Cornus-kousa-Samaritan.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyJrQDRyOAI/AAAAAAAAAHA/8llx_7tk-Io/s400/Cornus-kousa-Samaritan.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125777249403025410" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Sun -sun/part sun&lt;br /&gt;Height -25.0 ft&lt;br /&gt;Width - 20.0 ft&lt;br /&gt;Water - average&lt;br /&gt;Growth rate - average&lt;br /&gt;Hardiness Zones   5-8&lt;br /&gt;Soil -  well drained soils&lt;br /&gt;Flower - white bracts&lt;br /&gt;Seed - fleshy red fruits&lt;br /&gt;Foliage - Deciduous&lt;br /&gt;Fall Color- reddish purple&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;  BENEFITS&lt;br /&gt; Offspring of Cornus kousa 'Milky Way', a proven northern performer.&lt;br /&gt; Trial plantings have proven their hardiness rating equal to native species Cornus florida.&lt;br /&gt; Attractive creamy-white and green variegated foliage is highlighted with rich pink hues in late summer and fall.&lt;br /&gt; Prolific bloomer in May and June, after the majority of spring flowering ornamentals have finished blooming.&lt;br /&gt; Disease resistant.&lt;br /&gt; Ideal replacement for disease stricken native dogwood Cornus florida.&lt;br /&gt; A Care Free Maintenance™ tree, requiring little or no maintenance to maintain its natural form and beauty.&lt;br /&gt; uses&lt;br /&gt; Striking ornamental tree for featuring in commercial and residential  landscapes.&lt;br /&gt; Understory tree in large naturalized plantings.&lt;br /&gt; Ideal alternate for Cornus florida and Cornus kousa and cultivars.&lt;br /&gt; cultural&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; Prefers moist, acidic, well drained soils with high organic content, pH 4.5-6.5.&lt;br /&gt; Plant in full sun or partial shade.&lt;br /&gt; Best planted in the spring.&lt;br /&gt; Rate of Growth: Moderate, faster than species.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; current lcn production&lt;br /&gt; Field grown.&lt;br /&gt; No.5 and No.7 Container.&lt;br /&gt; Click here for current availability.&lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt; grower notes&lt;br /&gt; Propagate by summer mist cuttings (root readily) or budding.&lt;br /&gt; Foliage does not scorch in the hot sun.&lt;br /&gt; Reports from industry indicate Samaritan® is the best variegated kousa dogwood being grown to da&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-2136188628801507474?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/2136188628801507474/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=2136188628801507474' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/2136188628801507474'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/2136188628801507474'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/10/cornus-kousa-var-chinensis-samaritan.html' title='Cornus kousa var. chinensis Samaritan™ &apos;Samzam&apos;'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyJrQDRyOAI/AAAAAAAAAHA/8llx_7tk-Io/s72-c/Cornus-kousa-Samaritan.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-2579149712721866058</id><published>2007-10-25T12:25:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T12:40:15.845-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Pear'/><title type='text'>Young ‘Redspire’ Callery Pear</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyDvuzRyN_I/AAAAAAAAAG4/PThC-mTWSJk/s1600-h/redspire_flowering_pear.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyDvuzRyN_I/AAAAAAAAAG4/PThC-mTWSJk/s400/redspire_flowering_pear.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125359963265447922" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Pyrus calleryana ‘Redspire’&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;‘Redspire’ Callery Pear quickly grows 35 to 45 &lt;br /&gt;feet high and 20 feet wide, with upright-spreading, &lt;br /&gt;thornless branches (Fig. 1). The narrow crown enable &lt;br /&gt;this tree to be used in tight overhead spaces. The &lt;br /&gt;silhouette appears as a fat column growing wider than &lt;br /&gt;‘Whitehouse’ and ‘Capital’ but narrower than &lt;br /&gt;‘Bradford’ and ‘Aristocrat’. In spring before the new &lt;br /&gt;leaves unfold, the tree puts on a nice display of pure &lt;br /&gt;white flowers larger than ‘Bradford’ or ‘Aristocrat’. &lt;br /&gt;Flowering may be subdued in USDA hardiness zone &lt;br /&gt;8b and it occurs at about the same time as ‘Bradford’ &lt;br /&gt;Callery Pear. The leaves emerge as red/purple, then &lt;br /&gt;become 1.5 to 3 inches long, glossy green with wavy &lt;br /&gt;margins and a red blush. They turn yellow to orange &lt;br /&gt;in fall in the south putting on an attractive display &lt;br /&gt;before dropping. Fall color may be subdued in the &lt;br /&gt;north. The small, pea-sized, red/brown fruits which &lt;br /&gt;form are quite attractive to birds and other wildlife, &lt;br /&gt;and mummify on the tree persisting for several months &lt;br /&gt;to a year. Planting two or more cultivars of Callery &lt;br /&gt;Pear together could increase fruit set. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;GENERAL INFORMATION &lt;br /&gt;Scientific name: Pyrus calleryana ‘Redspire’ &lt;br /&gt;Pronunciation: PIE-rus kal-ler-ee-AY-nuh &lt;br /&gt;Common name(s): ‘Redspire’ Callery Pear &lt;br /&gt;Family: Rosaceae &lt;br /&gt;USDA hardiness zones: 5 through 9A (Fig. 2) &lt;br /&gt;Origin: not native to North America &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Uses: container or above-ground planter; large &lt;br /&gt;parking lot islands (&gt; 200 square feet in size); wide &lt;br /&gt;tree lawns (&gt;6 feet wide); medium-sized parking lot &lt;br /&gt;islands (100-200 square feet in size); medium-sized &lt;br /&gt;tree lawns (4-6 feet wide); recommended for buffer &lt;br /&gt;strips around parking lots or for median strip plantings &lt;br /&gt;in the highway; screen; shade tree; small parking lot &lt;br /&gt;islands (&lt; 100 square feet in size); narrow tree lawns &lt;br /&gt;(3-4 feet wide); specimen; sidewalk cutout (tree pit); &lt;br /&gt;residential street tree; tree has been successfully grown &lt;br /&gt;in urban areas where air pollution, poor drainage, &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;DESCRIPTION &lt;br /&gt;Height: 35 to 45 feet &lt;br /&gt;Spread: 20 to 30 feet &lt;br /&gt;Crown uniformity: symmetrical canopy with a &lt;br /&gt;regular (or smooth) outline, and individuals have more &lt;br /&gt;or less identical crown forms &lt;br /&gt;Crown shape: pyramidal &lt;br /&gt;Crown density: moderate &lt;br /&gt;Growth rate: fast &lt;br /&gt;Texture: medium &lt;br /&gt;Foliage &lt;br /&gt;Leaf arrangement: alternate (Fig. 3) &lt;br /&gt;Leaf type: simple &lt;br /&gt;Leaf margin: crenate; sinuate; undulate &lt;br /&gt;Leaf shape: ovate &lt;br /&gt;Leaf venation: pinnate; reticulate &lt;br /&gt;Leaf type and persistence: deciduous &lt;br /&gt;Leaf blade length: 2 to 4 inches; less than 2 inches &lt;br /&gt;Leaf color: green &lt;br /&gt;Flower &lt;br /&gt;Flower color: white &lt;br /&gt;Flower characteristics: spring flowering; very &lt;br /&gt;showy &lt;br /&gt;Fruit &lt;br /&gt;Fruit shape: round &lt;br /&gt;Fruit length: &lt; .5 inch &lt;br /&gt;Fruit covering: dry or hard &lt;br /&gt;Fruit color: brown; tan &lt;br /&gt;Fruit characteristics: attracts birds; attracts squirrels &lt;br /&gt;and other mammals; inconspicuous and not showy; no &lt;br /&gt;significant litter problem; persistent on the tree &lt;br /&gt;Trunk and Branches &lt;br /&gt;Trunk/bark/branches: bark is thin and easily &lt;br /&gt;damaged from mechanical impact; routinely grown &lt;br /&gt;with, or trainable to be grown with, multiple trunks; &lt;br /&gt;grow mostly upright and will not droop; not &lt;br /&gt;particularly showy; tree wants to grow with several&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-2579149712721866058?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/2579149712721866058/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=2579149712721866058' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/2579149712721866058'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/2579149712721866058'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/10/young-redspire-callery-pear.html' title='Young ‘Redspire’ Callery Pear'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RyDvuzRyN_I/AAAAAAAAAG4/PThC-mTWSJk/s72-c/redspire_flowering_pear.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-166493978081320199</id><published>2007-09-25T09:34:00.001-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T12:39:32.049-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Black Gum'/><title type='text'>Black Tupelo Tree "Blackgum"</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Rvk4tJr1rtI/AAAAAAAAAGo/KweDeTxzNbY/s1600-h/blackgum.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Rvk4tJr1rtI/AAAAAAAAAGo/KweDeTxzNbY/s400/blackgum.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5114181200200969938" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Black Tupelo&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Scientific classification&lt;br /&gt;Kingdom:    Plantae&lt;br /&gt;Division:    Magnoliophyta&lt;br /&gt;Class:            Magnoliopsida&lt;br /&gt;Order:            Cornales&lt;br /&gt;Family:    Cornaceae (Nyssaceae)&lt;br /&gt;Genus:            Nyssa&lt;br /&gt;Species:    N. sylvatica&lt;br /&gt;Binomial name     Nyssa sylvatica&lt;br /&gt;Marsh.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Black Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica), is a medium-sized deciduous tree which grows around 20-25 m (65-80 ft) tall (rarely to 35 m) and a trunk diameter of 50-100 cm (20-40 in) (rarely up to 170 cm). It is native to eastern North America, from New England and southern Ontario south to central Florida and eastern Texas.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The species is often known as simply Tupelo, but the full name Black Tupelo helps distinguish it from the other species of tupelo, some of which (Water Tupelo N. aquatica and Swamp Tupelo N. biflora) occur in the same area. The name Tupelo is of Native American origin. Other names include Blackgum, Pepperidge, Sourgum, and (on Martha's Vineyard) Beetlebung, this last perhaps from the mallet known as a beetle, used for hammering bungs, or stoppers, into barrels ("Beetlebung" and other tupelo lore). The scientific name means "nymph of the woods" in Greek.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight:bold;"&gt;Description&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The leaf of Black Tupelo is variable in size and shape. It can be oval, elliptical or obovate, and 5-12 cm (2-5 in) long. It is lustrous, with entire, often wavy margins. The leaf turns purple in autumn, eventually becoming an intense bright scarlet. The flower is very small, greenish-white in clusters at the top of a long stalk. The fruit is a black-blue, ovoid stone fruit, about 10 mm long with a thin, oily, bitter-to-sour flesh. There are from one to three such fruit together on a long slender stalk. The bark is dark grey and flaky when young, but it becomes furrowed with age, resembling alligator hide on very old stems. The twigs of this tree are reddish-brown, usually hidden by a greyish skin. The pith is chambered with greenish partitions. The branches typically stand at right angles to the trunk.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;∑ Bark: Light reddish brown, deeply furrowed and scaly. Branchlets at first pale green to orange, sometimes smooth, often downy, later dark brown.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Wood: Pale yellow, sapwood white; heavy, strong, very tough, hard to split, not durable in contact with the soil. Used for turnery. Sp. gr., 0.6353; weight of cu. ft., 39.59.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Winter buds: Dark red, obtuse, one-fourth of an inch long. Inner scales enlarge with the growing shoot, becoming red before they fall.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Leaves: Alternate, often crowded at the end of the lateral branches, simple, linear, oblong to oval, two to five inches long, one-half to three inches broad, wedge-shaped or rounded at base, entire, with margin slightly thickened, acute or acuminate. They come out of the bud conduplicate, coated beneath with rusty tomentum, when full grown are thick, dark green, very shining above, pale and often hairy beneath. Feather-veined, midrib and primary veins prominent beneath. In autumn they turn bright scarlet, or yellow and scarlet. Petioles one-quarter to one-half an inch long, slender or stout, terete or margined, often red.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;∑ Flowers: May, June, when leaves are half grown. Polygamodiœcious, yellowish green, borne on slender downy peduncles. Staminate in many-flowered heads; pistillate in two to several flowered clusters.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Calyx: Cup-shaped, five-toothed.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Corolla: Petals five, imbricate in bud, yellow green, ovate, thick, slightly spreading, inserted on the margin of the conspicuous disk.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Stamens: Five to twelve. In staminate flowers exserted, in pistillate short, often wanting.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Pistil: Ovary inferior, one to two-celled; style stout, exserted, reflexed above the middle. Entirely wanting in sterile flower. Ovules, one in each cell.&lt;br /&gt;∑ Fruit: Fleshy drupe, one to three from each flower cluster. Ovoid, two-thirds of an inch long, dark blue, acid. Stone more or less ridged. October.[1]&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Habitat&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Black Tupelo (Nyssa Sylvatica) grows best in well drained areas. Nyssa Aquatica grows best in swamps or lowlands that have poor drainage. Usually reaches the height of fifty feet and occasionally one hundred; variable in form. Roots are large, striking deep.[1]&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The limbs deteriorate early and the decayed holes make excellent dens for squirrels, raccoons, opossums and honeybees. Hollow sections of trunk were formerly used as bee gums by beekeepers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The glossy beauty of the Tupelo is undoubtely the reason why it so often is permitted to escape the levelling axe and allowed to stand in the fields with the elm, oak, and maple. In such a situation its contour is as individual as that of any of its companions. The stem rises to the summit fo the tree in one tapering unbroken shaft, the branches come out at right angles to the trunk and either extend horizontally or droop a little, making a long-narrow, cone-like head. The spray is fine and abundant and lies horizontally so that the foliage arrangement is not unlike that of the beech. The leaves are short petioled and so have little individual motion, but the branch sways as a whole.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The tree rarely flourishes in exposed positions, it dies at the top and lives on in a half-hearted way until the friendly axe ends the unequal struggle. But, allowed to grow in freedom, sheltered but not crowded, it develops a full round head and lives to good old age.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The flowers are inconspicuous, but the fruit is quite marked, dark blue, in clusters of two or three, sour but eagerly sought by the birds.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Its autumnal coloring is superb; the foliage becomes one glowing mass of scarlet, sometimes dashed with orange. It is the most fiery and brilliant of all that brilliant group: the maple, dogwood, sassafras, liquidambar, and tupelo.[1]&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Uses&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The wood is hard, cross-grained, and difficult to split, especially after drying. It is used for pallets, rough floors, pulpwood and firewood. It is also grown as an ornamental tree in parks and large gardens, with its often spectacular intense red to purple fall color being highly valued.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Black Tupelo is an important food source for many migrating birds in the fall. It's early color change (foliar fruit flagging) is thought to attract birds to the available fruit, which ripen before many other fall fruits and berries.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Birds recorded to feed on the fruit include: American Robin, Swainson's Thrush, Gray-cheeked Thrush, Hermit Thrush, Wood Thrush, Northern Cardinal, Northern Mockingbird, Blue Jay, Red-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Northern Flicker, Pileated Woodpecker, Eastern Phoebe, Brown Thrasher, Eastern Bluebird, European Starling, Scarlet Tanager, Gray Catbird, Cedar Waxwing, and American Crow, all primarily eastern birds migrating or residing year-round within the tree's range.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-166493978081320199?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/166493978081320199/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=166493978081320199' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/166493978081320199'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/166493978081320199'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/09/black-tupelo-tree-blackgum.html' title='Black Tupelo Tree &quot;Blackgum&quot;'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Rvk4tJr1rtI/AAAAAAAAAGo/KweDeTxzNbY/s72-c/blackgum.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-4414504671540759567</id><published>2007-09-20T09:15:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T12:45:21.161-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Hawthorn-Thornless'/><title type='text'>Thornless Hawthorn</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RvKc_MYpCgI/AAAAAAAAAGg/M3nRQxloGVs/s1600-h/Thornless_Cockspur_Hawthorn.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RvKc_MYpCgI/AAAAAAAAAGg/M3nRQxloGVs/s400/Thornless_Cockspur_Hawthorn.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5112321136489204226" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Family: Rosaceae (ro-ZAY-see-ay) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Genus: Crataegus (krah-TEE-gus) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Species: crus-galli var. inermis&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Height:_15-20 ft. (4.7-6 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Spacing:_15-20 ft. (4.7-6 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Hardiness:_USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 °C (-30 °F)_USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 °C (-25 °F)_USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)_USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)_USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)_USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)_USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)_USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Sun Exposure:_Full Sun_Sun to Partial Shade&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Danger:_Seed is poisonous if ingested&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Color:_White/Near White&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Time:_Late Spring/Early Summer&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Foliage:_Herbaceous&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Other details:_This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds_Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping_Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Soil pH requirements:_6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)_6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)_7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Propagation Methods:_From woody stem cuttings_From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall_From seed; stratify if sowing indoors&lt;br /&gt;Seed Collecting:_Collect seedhead/pod when flowers fade; allow to dry&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-4414504671540759567?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/4414504671540759567/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=4414504671540759567' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/4414504671540759567'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/4414504671540759567'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/09/thornless-hawthorn.html' title='Thornless Hawthorn'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp1.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RvKc_MYpCgI/AAAAAAAAAGg/M3nRQxloGVs/s72-c/Thornless_Cockspur_Hawthorn.gif' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-1597840718694321756</id><published>2007-09-17T07:34:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T12:48:44.637-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Locust-Sunburst'/><title type='text'>Sunburst Honey Locust</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Ru6QhoF1txI/AAAAAAAAAGY/XZVPnalmLGA/s1600-h/sunburst+honeylocust.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Ru6QhoF1txI/AAAAAAAAAGY/XZVPnalmLGA/s400/sunburst+honeylocust.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5111181534484084498" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Sunburst Honey Locust &lt;br /&gt;Gleditsia triacanthos f. inermis 'Sunburst'&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Sunburst Honeylocust tree, Gleditsia triacanthos inermis, 'Sunburst', is smaller in stature than the common Honeylocust tree. Sunburst Honeylocust trees display yellow new growth, and the yellow leaves persists throughout the season. The wood is dense, hard, and durable. The Sunburst Honeylocust is fast growing up to 2 ‘ a year. It is a very fine textured tree with a broad, pyramidal crown, and an excellent lawn tree for filtered shade.&lt;br /&gt;This deciduous tree displays clusters of yellow-green, fragrant flowers open in May-June. The leaves are divided into many small, oval leaflets giving a fern-like appearance to the foliage; leaves are normally green, but the 'Sunburst' cultivar has light yellow leaves. This tree is a version of improved thornless, podless varieties. Easy to transplant because it withstands a wide range of conditions. Does best in moist bottomlands or soils with high pH. Prefers full sun. Extremely salt tolerant.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-1597840718694321756?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/1597840718694321756/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=1597840718694321756' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1597840718694321756'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1597840718694321756'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/09/sunburst-honey-locust.html' title='Sunburst Honey Locust'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Ru6QhoF1txI/AAAAAAAAAGY/XZVPnalmLGA/s72-c/sunburst+honeylocust.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-9108985542088612100</id><published>2007-08-25T09:36:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T13:13:48.602-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Lawn-Fixing Bare Spots'/><title type='text'>How Do I Fix Those Bare Spots In My Lawn?</title><content type='html'>&lt;a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RtBbOSfoIjI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/S5aZkVO_VV0/s1600-h/images.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RtBbOSfoIjI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/S5aZkVO_VV0/s400/images.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5102678678851559986" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Reseeding Bare Spots in Lawns&lt;br /&gt;Lawns often have areas of thin grass or bare spots, which detract from the overall appearance. In most cases, the rest of the lawn is in good condition, and the homeowner doesn't want to tear it out and start over again. Provided there are no major external causes for the bare spots or thin areas, they can usually be easily repaired by reseeding.&lt;br /&gt;Many people attempt to correct bare and thin patches merely by scattering seed over the spots. This is a waste of time and money. Follow these guidelines to reseed bare spots.&lt;br /&gt;Grass Establishment on Problem Areas:&lt;br /&gt;• First, clip the lawn low to get rid of as much existing vegetation as possible.&lt;br /&gt;• Remove dead grass and leaves near the soil surface with a rake. The soil surface should be completely exposed.&lt;br /&gt;• Fill low spots with good soil if necessary.&lt;br /&gt;• Loosen the soil already present in bare spots.&lt;br /&gt;Once you have exposed and loosened the soil, you can seed the spot. Pack or firm the soil lightly after seeding, and continue to clip low, until the new grass establishes itself. Keep the newly seeded areas moist until the grass is up. Weed-free straw or hay mulch helps conserve moisture.&lt;br /&gt;August 15 to September 15, is an excellent time of year to seed lawn grasses.&lt;br /&gt;Introducing lower maintenance turf varieties into an existing lawn can be done through some type of overseeding practice. Selecting grass varieties adaptable to lower input levels is the first important step in making the transition to a lawn adaptable to lower inputs.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-9108985542088612100?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/9108985542088612100/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=9108985542088612100' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/9108985542088612100'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/9108985542088612100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/08/how-do-i-fix-those-bare-spots-in-my.html' title='How Do I Fix Those Bare Spots In My Lawn?'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RtBbOSfoIjI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/S5aZkVO_VV0/s72-c/images.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-4403145189718270431</id><published>2007-06-21T11:47:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-06-21T11:50:54.613-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Composting'/><title type='text'>How to Make Your Own Worm Compost System</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RnrIInFyBDI/AAAAAAAAAGI/cEhQv0Dg6aU/s1600-h/180px-Compost.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RnrIInFyBDI/AAAAAAAAAGI/cEhQv0Dg6aU/s400/180px-Compost.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5078591580071396402" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Compost&lt;br /&gt;Vermiculture, or worm composting, allows you to compost all your food waste faster than you ever imagined, while producing the highest quality compost and fertilizing liquid. Best of all, it's self-contained and nearly odorless! &lt;a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Worm-Compost-System"&gt;Click Here For More!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-4403145189718270431?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/4403145189718270431/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=4403145189718270431' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/4403145189718270431'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/4403145189718270431'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/06/how-to-make-your-own-worm-compost.html' title='How to Make Your Own Worm Compost System'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RnrIInFyBDI/AAAAAAAAAGI/cEhQv0Dg6aU/s72-c/180px-Compost.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-1927597909038978301</id><published>2007-05-07T20:05:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T13:17:25.396-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Shrub-Rose-New Dawn'/><title type='text'>Rosa 'New Dawn' Large Flowered Climber</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Rj_pK1G_v8I/AAAAAAAAAGA/KWm_9O1XIew/s1600-h/new-dawn-rose-flower.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Rj_pK1G_v8I/AAAAAAAAAGA/KWm_9O1XIew/s400/new-dawn-rose-flower.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5062020878452113346" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Family: Rosaceae (ro-ZAY-see-ay) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Genus: Rosa (RO-zuh) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Cultivar: New Dawn&lt;br /&gt;Additional cultivar information: (aka Everblooming Dr. W. Van Fleet, The New Dawn)&lt;br /&gt;Hybridized by Somerset 1930&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Class:&lt;br /&gt;Modern Climber&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Height:&lt;br /&gt;8-10 ft. (2.4-3 m)&lt;br /&gt;10-12 ft. (3-3.6 m)&lt;br /&gt;12-15 ft. (3.6-4.7 m)&lt;br /&gt;15-20 ft. (4.7-6 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Spacing:&lt;br /&gt;4-6 ft. (1.2-1.8 m)&lt;br /&gt;6-8 ft. (1.8-2.4 m)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Hardiness:&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8° C (-20° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1° C (-15° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3° C (-10° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5° C (-5° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7° C (0° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9° C (5° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2° C (10° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4° C (15° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6° C (20° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8° C (25° F)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Color:&lt;br /&gt;Light pink (lp)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Shape:&lt;br /&gt;Semi-double&lt;br /&gt;Double&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Flower Fragrance:&lt;br /&gt;Slightly Fragrant&lt;br /&gt;Very Fragrant&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bloom Time:&lt;br /&gt;Mid Summer&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Habit:&lt;br /&gt;Trained to climb&lt;br /&gt;Trained as rambler&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Patent Information:&lt;br /&gt;Patented&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Other Details:&lt;br /&gt;Shade-tolerant&lt;br /&gt;Resistant to black spot&lt;br /&gt;Resistant to mildew&lt;br /&gt;Resistant to rust&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Pruning Instructions:&lt;br /&gt;Blooms on old wood; prune after flowering&lt;br /&gt;Avoid pruning&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Soil pH requirements:&lt;br /&gt;6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Propagation Methods:&lt;br /&gt;From hardwood cuttings&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-1927597909038978301?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/1927597909038978301/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=1927597909038978301' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1927597909038978301'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1927597909038978301'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/05/rosa-new-dawn-large-flowered-climber.html' title='Rosa &apos;New Dawn&apos; Large Flowered Climber'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp3.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/Rj_pK1G_v8I/AAAAAAAAAGA/KWm_9O1XIew/s72-c/new-dawn-rose-flower.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-7030202725098857309</id><published>2007-05-03T19:27:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T13:18:06.523-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Shrub-Rose-Home Run'/><title type='text'>Home Run™ A Great Cool Climate Rose</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RjqaR1G_v7I/AAAAAAAAAF4/kWpryIuwcZs/s1600-h/HomeRun.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RjqaR1G_v7I/AAAAAAAAAF4/kWpryIuwcZs/s400/HomeRun.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5060526762409050034" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;2006 Intro&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Shrub - Showy flame red&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This flame-red offspring of the famous Knock Out® (cv. RADrazz) kicks the competition up a notch when it comes to disease resistance. Home Run has a phenomenal fortitude against the dreaded black spot (like its father). But, unlike Dad, it is also completely resistant to powdery mildew &amp; has a much higher level of tolerance to downy as well. Rounded, bushy, fast-to-flower and nearly always in color, it hits a grand slam in the landscape &amp; scores lots of points in a pot, too.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Height / Habit: : Medium / Rounded &amp; bushy&lt;br /&gt;Bloom / Size: : Medium, single&lt;br /&gt;Petal count: 5&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-7030202725098857309?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/7030202725098857309/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=7030202725098857309' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/7030202725098857309'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/7030202725098857309'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/05/home-run-great-cool-climate-rose.html' title='Home Run™ A Great Cool Climate Rose'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RjqaR1G_v7I/AAAAAAAAAF4/kWpryIuwcZs/s72-c/HomeRun.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-3584103385676198402</id><published>2007-05-02T18:50:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T13:35:40.738-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Articles 2007-Tomatoes: Grow perfect summer beauties'/><title type='text'>Tomatoes: Grow perfect summer beauties</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RjlACFG_v6I/AAAAAAAAAFw/VVDGRGdlumU/s1600-h/Tomato0301Primary.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RjlACFG_v6I/AAAAAAAAAFw/VVDGRGdlumU/s400/Tomato0301Primary.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5060146060802899874" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Enjoy beauties from your garden&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;By DANNY C. FLANDERS&lt;br /&gt;The Atlanta Journal-Constitution&lt;br /&gt;Published on: 04/19/07&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Few things say summer like a plump, juicy, bright red tomato — the kind that slips and slides between two mandatory slices of white bread slathered with that other key ingredient, a heaping helping of mayo.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;By spring, the hunger for fresh tomatoes grows so intense it prompts even the brownest of thumbs to grab a six-pack of plants at the garden center and stick them in the ground. But unbeknownst to them, there's real science to growing a tomato and, what's more, a real art to cultivating the perfect one. Little wonder, then, that mistakes are as rampant as the diseases that plague the beloved fruit — so many they prompt cries of help that light up the switchboard all summer for gardening guru Walter Reeves' Saturday morning radio call-in show.&lt;br /&gt;Chris Hunt/Staff&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;"Almost always I get, 'My tomato has early blight. What do I do?' " says Reeves, host of "The Lawn &amp; Garden Show" on WSB-AM. "The disease splashes up off the ground onto the plant, and by July the leaves turn yellow and fall off." (His solution: Spray with Daconil and mulch plants early on to prevent the disease from spreading.)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Despite the challenges, many gardeners manage each year to produce a bumper crop of big fat tomatoes — sought-after commodities for Plant a Row for the Hungry, a metro area food drive that collects fresh vegetables for charities.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;"There is something special about food that is grown locally and with tender loving care," says Bill Bolling, executive director of the Atlanta Community Food Bank, which distributes the produce to member agencies.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Just ask Daryl Pulis, who grows all her vegetables from seed, including heirloom varieties of tomatoes.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;"I've been planting heirlooms for 20 years, back before anyone called them that," says Pulis, who lives in Cumming.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A Master Gardener, Pulis says the biggest mistakes gardeners make in growing tomatoes, whether heirlooms or hybrids, is planting them too early, instead of waiting until soil warms, and not giving them enough space. "They read the Yankee gardening book that tells them to plant tomatoes 18 inches apart," she says. "They may not get too big up north, but down here plants get huge, so you've got to give them room to spread out."&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Here's what she and Reeves recommend for growing the perfect tomato:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Choosing a variety&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Select one known to adapt well to your area that offers good disease resistance, such as Big Boy, Better Boy, Rutgers, Celebrity and First Lady. Among heirlooms, which typically taste better but offer less disease resistance, Pulis recommends Stupice and Arkansas Traveler.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;"The wonderful thing about Stupice is it's just the right size to eat and won't flop over the sides of a sandwich," she says. "And if you slice one and don't use it all, the flavor doesn't disappear when it's refrigerated." Choose healthy plants with no signs of yellowing or spots on leaves and ones without blooms, which force the plant to spend its energy producing fruit instead of establishing roots.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Selecting a site&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Plant tomatoes in a site that offers full sunlight, loose, well-drained soil and access to irrigation. "Too many try to grow them in shade, which forces the plant to stretch," Reeves says. "You may have some tomatoes but not many."&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Have your soil tested if you don't know its pH; tomatoes prefer one between 6.2 and 6.8. A test (kits are available from county Extension Service offices) may show a need for fertilizer or lime.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Setting out plants&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Plant tomato plants 8 to 10 inches deep (up to the first two leaves) so that only a few inches of plant are showing, and space them at least 2 feet apart. If planting in containers, avoid overcrowding and use no more than one or two plants for a whiskey-barrel-size pot. Water the plants well and add mulch, such as pine straw or newspaper, to help soil retain moisture and prevent the spread of disease from soil to plant. "Not mulching is probably the biggest mistake people make," Reeves says.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Giving support&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Tomatoes thrive on trellising — but don't crowd them with cone-shaped cages that quickly prove too small. "I use those for pepper plants instead," Pulis says. Instead, she recommends looping mesh concrete-reinforcing wire into a 24-inch diameter cylinder. Using bolt cutters, remove the bottom ring of wire and use the remaining vertical prongs to stabilize the cage in the ground.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Caring for plants&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Tomatoes require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Set out an open tuna fish can to gauge that amount. Avoid overwatering plants, which can lead to problems like blossom end rot, in which the base of the fruit turns to mush. Avoid fluctuations between wet and dry by keeping soil evenly moist.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Harvesting the fruit&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Show some willpower and avoid picking tomatoes until they are red but still firm. Once that occurs, bring on the white bread — and don't forget the Hellmann's!&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-3584103385676198402?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/3584103385676198402/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=3584103385676198402' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/3584103385676198402'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/3584103385676198402'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/05/tomatoes-grow-perfect-summer-beauties.html' title='Tomatoes: Grow perfect summer beauties'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RjlACFG_v6I/AAAAAAAAAFw/VVDGRGdlumU/s72-c/Tomato0301Primary.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-7900758139067251617</id><published>2007-04-15T06:38:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T13:24:48.771-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Articles 2007-Fruit Trees Affected By Freeze'/><title type='text'>Cold Snap Might Nip Fruit Trees In The Bud</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RiIrVyXlPQI/AAAAAAAAAFo/wHaFjFx_-ds/s1600-h/images.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RiIrVyXlPQI/AAAAAAAAAFo/wHaFjFx_-ds/s400/images.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5053649385161047298" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Growers in the Northeast and Midwest worry.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;By Genaro C. Armas Of The Associated Press&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;| Bob Lawless had a sunny outlook for his peach crop early this week as delightful weather pushed some of his trees nearly to blossom. Then the cold snap hit.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;On Friday, Lawless and other farmers across the Midwest and Northeast were fretting over their fruits.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;''Peaches -- I'm a little more skeptical,'' said Lawless, manager of the horticulture production unit at Delaware Valley College in Doylestown. ''They've been hurt a little bit at this point.''&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Temperatures had soared into the 70s across the Midwest and mid-Atlantic before a cold front ushered in the chill.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Freezing nighttime temperatures were expected through the weekend in Doylestown and across much of the Midwest, mid-Atlantic and Northeast. That's trouble for fruit trees, especially those in the delicate blossom stage, when the treasured fruit begins to form.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For now, Lawless said he will hope for the best. ''It's a little too soon to tell,'' he said.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The cold already has damaged grapevines at James Arthur Vineyards near Raymond, Neb., where many buds nearing bloom have turned black and gray.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;''It may knock us down in half, it may knock us down a quarter -- I just don't know,'' field manager Josh Rockemann said.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Apple growers face similar worries in places like central Virginia, where some trees are two weeks ahead of schedule, said Jim Cranney, a vice president of the U.S. Apple Association of Vienna, Va. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;But Cranney said he didn't think the impact will be nearly as severe as a devastating California freeze earlier this year that caused an estimated $280 million in citrus losses.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The cold snap comes on the heels of relatively unusual weather in the East, which saw warm temperatures in early January before relatively more seasonable conditions set in for the next six weeks. It was warmer than usual for the last couple of weeks before the latest plunge.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In Michigan, warm weather earlier this week caused apple trees to develop ''by leaps and bounds,'' said Denise Yockey, executive director of the Michigan Apple Committee. While the cold snap was a concern, she said growers of cherries, apricots and peaches, which blossom earlier in the season, were more worried.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Those crops were the main concern for Kay Hollabaugh, an owner of Hollabaugh Bros. Inc. Fruit Farms &amp; Market in Biglerville, Clearfield County, which has 75 acres of stone fruit trees.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Hollabaugh said that's too much ground for frost- and cold-protection methods that smaller farmers might use, such as running wind machines or burning tires to create warmth.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The 75-degree temperatures earlier this week in central Pennsylvania ''pushed things very quickly'' to blossom for plums, apricots and some peaches, she said.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Her advice to backyard growers: Don't plant anything until the first full moon in May.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;''If they have some things out, they need to get things covered,'' she said, ''and join me in prayers.''&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Associated Press writer Oskar Garcia in Omaha, Neb., contributed to this report.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-7900758139067251617?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/7900758139067251617/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=7900758139067251617' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/7900758139067251617'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/7900758139067251617'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/04/cold-snap-might-nip-fruit-trees-in-bud.html' title='Cold Snap Might Nip Fruit Trees In The Bud'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp0.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RiIrVyXlPQI/AAAAAAAAAFo/wHaFjFx_-ds/s72-c/images.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-1444414290281348684</id><published>2007-04-04T20:47:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T13:31:45.440-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Insect Control-Aphids'/><title type='text'>Controlling Aphids</title><content type='html'>&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RhRxj6K11RI/AAAAAAAAAFg/wox3uvM-oVI/s1600-h/Aphid.jpeg"&gt;&lt;img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RhRxj6K11RI/AAAAAAAAAFg/wox3uvM-oVI/s400/Aphid.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049785943913256210" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Aphids are tiny insects (1/32 to 1/8 of an inch) that have piercing/sucking mouth parts. They infest tender new foliage on both annual and permanent plants, usually in spring or early summer. Aphids ingest the fluids from tender leaf or stem tissue of the plant, robbing it of nutrients. Aphids also spread disease by moving from one plant to another. Even without resorting to chemical methods, they're not difficult to get rid of.&lt;br /&gt;Instructions&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; STEP 1: Look for aphids on the undersides of leaves and on tender new growth. You will notice a yellowing of the leaves on new growth, most often in the spring or early summer months. Aphids are usually found in large colonies, called infestations.&lt;br /&gt; STEP 2: Spray a strong jet of water directly onto the affected area of the plant. The stream will wash the insects off. This is the easiest way to control aphids.&lt;br /&gt; STEP 3: Spray with a soap/oil mixture if the water alone doesn't do the job. Mix 1 tsp. insecticidal soap with 1/2 tsp. horticultural oil in 1 quart water in a spray bottle. There are also numerous chemical sprays available.&lt;br /&gt; STEP 4: Try ladybugs for serious aphid infestations. Place a newly purchased bag of ladybugs in the vegetable crisper of your refrigerator while you go outside and water your garden. Release them during the evening hours to protect them from hungry birds.&lt;br /&gt; STEP 5: Attract other types of predatory insects that will consume and control aphids by planting dill, fennel, coreopsis and brightly colored flowers near the aphid-prone plants.&lt;br /&gt; STEP 6: As a preventive measure, spray during the dormant season (winter) to head off severe recurring infestations - aphid eggs overwinter on woody stems. Use a dormant-season oil spray.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Tips &amp; Warnings&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Always try the least toxic method of pest control as your first step.&lt;br /&gt;Water your garden prior to releasing ladybugs. They are thirsty from traveling and will     eat aphids after taking a refreshing drink.&lt;br /&gt;Select and grow plants that are naturally resistant to aphids. These include plants with a milky sap and thick or fuzzy leaves; the particular plants will vary depending on where you live.&lt;br /&gt;Plants native to your area are generally naturally resistant to insect attack.  Hummingbirds eat aphids too! Encourage them to visit your garden by hanging a feeder and keeping it clean and full.&lt;br /&gt;If you use pesticides in your garden, you will kill natural predators of aphids such as ladybugs and lacewings.&lt;br /&gt; If you choose a chemical control, always wear protective clothing and safety gear, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, neoprene gloves, goggles and a respirator.&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-1444414290281348684?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/feeds/1444414290281348684/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='https://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=2872781541521098756&amp;postID=1444414290281348684' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1444414290281348684'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/1444414290281348684'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/04/controlling-aphids.html' title='Controlling Aphids'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RhRxj6K11RI/AAAAAAAAAFg/wox3uvM-oVI/s72-c/Aphid.jpeg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872781541521098756.post-132175458665043802</id><published>2007-04-03T20:02:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2007-10-25T12:59:32.077-07:00</updated><category scheme='http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#' term='Tree-Maple-red'/><title type='text'>Sun Valley Maple</title><content type='html'>A beautiful Red Maple That Is A Cross Between A Red Sunset And An Autumn Flame Maple&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RhMV8KK11QI/AAAAAAAAAFY/NAuKxXSS8BY/s1600-h/DETA-70.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RhMV8KK11QI/AAAAAAAAAFY/NAuKxXSS8BY/s400/DETA-70.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5049403730478617858" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Red Maple, Scarlet Maple&lt;br /&gt;Acer rubrum 'Sun Valley'&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Family: Aceraceae (ay-ser-AY-see-ay) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Genus: Acer (AY-ser) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Species: rubrum (ROO-brum) (Info)&lt;br /&gt;Cultivar: Sun Valley&lt;br /&gt;Height: over 40 ft. (12 m)&lt;br /&gt;Spacing: 30-40 ft. (9-12 m)&lt;br /&gt;Hardiness:&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4° C (-30° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6° C (-25° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8° C (-20° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1° C (-15° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3° C (-10° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5° C (-5° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7° C (0° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9° C (5° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2° C (10° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4° C (15° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6° C (20° F)&lt;br /&gt;USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8° C (25° F)&lt;br /&gt;Sun Exposure: Sun to Partial Shade&lt;br /&gt;Fall Color: Red&lt;br /&gt;Other details: Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater&lt;br /&gt;Soil pH requirements:&lt;br /&gt;5.1 to 5.5 (strongly acidic)&lt;br /&gt;5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)&lt;br /&gt;Propagation Methods:&lt;br /&gt;From woody stem cuttings&lt;br /&gt;From softwood cuttings&lt;br /&gt;From semi-hardwood cuttings&lt;br /&gt;From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall&lt;br /&gt;By air layering&lt;br /&gt;Seed Collecting:&lt;br /&gt;Collect seedhead/pod when flowers fade; allow to dry&lt;br /&gt;Seed does not store well; sow as soon as possible&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;modern gardener&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2872781541521098756-132175458665043802?l=www.moderngardener.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/132175458665043802'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/2872781541521098756/posts/default/132175458665043802'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.moderngardener.com/2007/04/sun-valley-maple.html' title='Sun Valley Maple'/><author><name>Shane</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://bp2.blogger.com/_9YT7c6W0A08/RhMV8KK11QI/AAAAAAAAAFY/NAuKxXSS8BY/s72-c/DETA-70.jpg' height='72' width='72'/></entry></feed>